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Q & A Microdermabrasion from A to Z

There are a lot of misnomer’s about Microdermabrasion. I wanted to break the entire process down for you, explain each detail of what it is, how it works and what it can do for your clients skin. I believe this is a powerful tool in an Aestheticians room and should be utilized.

What is Microdermabrasion?

Let’s break it down…

Micro/Derm/Abrasion: Microsopically Abrade (remove) the top layer of the Epidermis to improve the skins elasticity, texture and clarity.

A physical (not chemical in which certain acids dissolve the despinosum which is the glue that hold all the dead cells in its place) removal of dead skin cells by way of a flow of crystals (aluminum oxide, salt, baking soda, oatmeal or diamond tip) that loosen and lift the cells, then a vacuum (negative pressure) draws the skin close to the apparatus, sweeps away the cells and crystals while increasing circulation of lymph and blood. Under the microscope, the skin looks like overlapping fish scales.

 

How does microdermabrasion create results?

There are two ways Microdermabrasion create results, Epidermis and the Subcutanious layers of the skin.

Epidermis- the surface of the skin.  The skin is alive and will protect itself and when you exfoliate the skin it goes into survival mode. The Basal Layer (I like to call it the nursery) is where all the cells are produced and it start kicking out new cells, these new cells replace the old cells that are removed from the Epidermis, hence cellular turnover is increased. During this process collagen and elastin fibroblasts (connective fibers of the skin that supports the skins form) both get stimulated and increases the firmness of the skin. I like to explain to my clients in this way, “Microdermabrasion is a controlled trauma procedure. The nursery layer where all the cells are generated from gets stimulated. After 3-4 treatments depending on the client, the Basel Layer gets fatigued and calls for back up from the dermis and then collagen and elastin are produced.”

subcutaneous under the skin where blood and lymph are present. Lymph and blood flow are increased due to the negative pressure that removes the crystals and dead skin cells from the surface of the skin and draws them back into the machine. Lymph is the toxic waste dump of the body and has two functions; lymph supplies all cells with moisture and nutrients. Lymph also draws toxins away from cells keeping them in optimal health. Lymph does not move throughout the body on its own; it moves by way of muscle contraction, message and natural body movement. There is a specific direction to move the apparatus so that the negative pressure (massage) can be fully utilized, always moving out and down towards the lymph nodes that specifically filter the lymph. Oxidation to the skin happens when the negative pressure not only moves the lymph but also draws blood to the surface of the skin which stimulates circulation nourishing and oxidizing the skin.

 

What is the treatment regime?

Anyone who wants healthier and younger looking skin can have a treatment done, age is applicable on what the client is trying to achieve. Clients can have 1 treatment per week for consecutive weeks (up to 12 if needed) to achieve optimal results. As a therapist, I want to make sure that a clients goes through their treatment regime to get them through a full cell cycle. Cell cycle can be anywhere from 21-45 days. Getting them through a full cell cycle makes sure that they will have the best results. Having treatments close to one another makes sure that the basal layer is continually stimulated; this is important for elastin and collagen syntheses.

Maintaining is needed and encouraged due to the inability to stop the ageing process. Clients can have 1 treatment per month, the every 3rd month and so on. Remember that all clients are not the same. Each individuals and each have different home regimes and lifestyles. The professional must listen and take account their specific needs and desired results. It is always recommended to each client to use

 

pharmaceutical skin care products with SPF to protect the newly exfoliated skin. When you have removed the dead skin layer, skin care products can be more quickly penetrated, providing the skin with immediate surge of moisture, nutrients, acids and vitamins. Always inform them that 20% of their results happen in the treatment room and 80% of their results happen at home.

What are some things to be aware of?

It is extremely important and it is the professionals responsibility to prescreen each potential clients. .Some clients will not be able to utilize the microdermabrasion procedure because of the following:

*Active or open acne lesions such as pustules.

*Rosecia- depends on each client. Never during a time when the skin has inflammation due to blood circulation.

*pregnancy Hyperpigmentation masking may be stimulated due to hormonal levels.

*dermatitis inflammatory condition that may flare up.

*Broken capillaries the vacuum or negative pressure may further the condition.

*Herpes Simplex I & II- Preexisting condition. Can cause an outbreak for the client.

*HIV & AIDS- The skin is thinned and can cause lesions due to a inefficient immune system

*Diabetes- The skin is extremely compromised with many medications.

*Tattoos- Tattoos can be lightened

What can you expect from getting treatments?

I like to tell my clients that results vary from client to client. I also like to explain that the longer it took to get the skin conditions a client has, the more treatments a client needs. Overall the skin becomes healthier and appears fresher, younger. Sun damage is reversed. The following results can be achieved:

*Hyperpigmentation such as age/liver spots are lightened and/or removed.

*Acne scars and pore size are minimized thus texture of the skin is improved.

*Tone and clarity due to blood and lymph circulation looks evened out.

*Elasticity and firmness are increased due to the exfoliation process.

*Restoration of the skin to its natural beauty and diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles are achieved.

*Decrease of oil production in oily complexions, safe for certain Rosacia clients.

What is a treatment like, from start to finish?

Wear gloves and a mask.

*Cleanse twice with lukewarm water and NO steam, no need to draw up circulation before the use of the vacuum.

*The use of an alcohol based toner/astringent/solution thoroughly dries the skin due to fact evaporation and removes all evidence of cleanser. Since this is a dry process the professional must not leave the skin moist. The use of a 2%-5% chemical acid can start the exfoliating process due to dissolving the dead skin cells even before they are loosened and swept away, and kills bacteria as well.

*Microdermabrasion procedure. Moving the apparatus down and out towards the lymph nodes.

*Removal of all crystals. This differs and depends on which crystals are being utilized.

*Extractions are best and easiest at this time.

*Ultrasound with Vitamin C and retinol (take advantage of the skin)

*Mask application re nourishes, moisturizes, calms and treats.

*Moisturizer with an SPF to protect the new skin from further damage. This skin is now photosensitive.

I recommend everyone try a treatment. Do your homework and get one!!! Happy Exfoliating everyone!

The Beauty Blueprint Project #2

I mentioned in my last blog that  “I want to embrace change. It might appear scary at first but I know that with that change I will grow as a person. I WILL embrace it. I have felt for a while now that I have been in a rut and I am looking forward to this change.” I guess I’m still in this rut. I have been so preoccupied with starting a new employment position at Nucci Medical Clinic, my About FACE radio show, Directing About BEAUTY networking group, getting my new Web site up and running, and everything else in between. My point is that the reason I am in a rut is because I am preoccupied with life. We all have time to do what we would like to do, we just have to make the time!
If I am to do this project, I don’t want to half a$$ it. I really want to do a realy great job; not only for me, but for you my reader.
 
Okay, I’m diving in… but before I do…
“Using This Book” there are a few things I am going to need: A Journal, Index Cards, My Favorite Pen, Old Magazines, Colored Pencils, a Poster Board, Scissors, Thumbtacks, the Website www.michellephillips.com and lastly a special storage spot like a basket or a drawer. All check!
I realize this book is an eight-step process. For every step there will be written exercises. This will create a plan for your life, looks, and teach me how to find ongoing support to turn this plan into reality. Every chapter Michelle has thrown in some facts and exercises, as well as some powerful affirmations to recite. By step 8, Michelle says that I will have a wonderfully new, vibrant perspective on my real beauty.
I start this project with anticipation and excitement! I hope you join me in this new plan!!!

‘The Beauty Blueprint Project #1

And so let the true therapy begin…

 

 

I was so grateful when Michelle Phillips contacted me asking to be a guest on my About FACE Internet radio show which broadcasts on Rhino On Air at 9am Thursdays EST. (www.rhinoonair.com)  As I do with all my guests, I googled her and discovered wow, she is not only an amazing and accomplished celebrity makeup artist but a motivational speaker, Life Coach, TV and radio host as well as being a bestselling Hay House author. Michelle guested on my show last week and what impressed me was, not only her extensive range of celebrity clientele but her grace and spirit.

 

Michelle presented me with her book “The Beauty Blueprint” as a personal thank you for being a guest and I promised her then that I would read her book, do the exercises and then blog about my discoveries. As I originally mentioned in my first blog, “In the Beginning” this is not only intended to be informative but I genuinely feel it will also act as great therapy for me. I cannot think of a better book than this to allow me to rediscover who I am from the inside and help reclaim the essence of what makes me uniquely beautiful.  I know that these findings and this deep inner self discovery will act as a satisfying and absorbing read.

 

The moment I received my book I devoured the first part of it and it brought me to tears.  “The Inspiration for the Beauty Blueprint” is the title of the preface of Michelle Phillips’ book “The Beauty Blueprint” www.michellephillips.com and in there I found just that, inspiration. I have been feeling less than inspired lately and this could be the catalyst to change that. I believe that everything begins with what is going on in the mind which ultimately affects your attitude.

 

I want to embrace change. It might appear scary at first but I know that with that change I will grow as a person. I WILL embrace it. I have felt for a while now that I have been in a rut and I am looking forward to this change.

 

I am looking forward to sharing with you what I learn from this book, my findings and genuinely hope it will inspire you in much the same way.

 

Cheers to therapy!

 

 

 

 

Inspiratio​n in the First Cup of Java

Beauty Advocate: Learn the ins and outs of the beauty industry… get great tips, inspiration & Advice. This blog is about inspiration, the lack of inspiration and the wonderful effects of caffine when it is applied to the skin. This blog is my therapy; the good, the bad and the less inspired.Insprational Java!

I have been feeling less inspired lately. We can so easily get bogged down with things that preoccupy our minds and steal our inspiration. Our lives are littered with signals, signs and sounds and we get so busy we lose sight, we forget to stop and smell the roses. We loose our inspiration and  I think this is what has been happening to me lately. My mind seems pre occupied with so many things that I am feeling weighed down by them.  It is important to be honest with ourselves, take the time to ponder why we are feeling the way we do and think about how we go about our daily lives. Are we living or merely existing?

I usually blog if I’m inspired so why can’t I blog when I’m not? As I type this I am thinking of all the things that inspire me, a new client, a new lipstick color, a great dress that has been hanging in my closet for over a year and is still yet to be worn. Maybe something as simple as great home cooking.

Now I cannot miss the fact that this is a skin and beauty blog so I must share what caffine can do for the skin…

  • The University of Washington in Seattle recently conducted a study in which they exposed healthy skin cells and UV damaged skin cells to caffeine. The caffeine caused the damaged cells to die while not hurting the healthy cells. This study was published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology. This study didn’t allude to the fact that topically applied caffeine would work any better than ingested caffeine though.
  • The second is actually a number of studies that point to caffeine’s anti-inflammatory properties. So the theory is that if caffeine is placed under the eye, then it can help reduce puffiness and dark circle as they are caused by inflammation.
  • Caffine is found in many cellulite treatments. Caffine is a stimulant and promotes circulation, thus deminishes the appearance of cellulite.

Recently I traveled to Miami for the International Congress of Esthetics and Spa www.lneonline/tradeshows.com and I found inspiration came very easily in a room full of my peers. With great new skincare products and beautiful makeup colors for the Spring I got inspired by speaking to other professionals about marketing ideas. So why only weeks later I am feeling less than inspired?

When I looked up the word inspiration I found this: Inspiration refers to an unconscious burst of creativity in a literary, musical, or other artistic endeavour. Literally, the word means “breathed upon,” and it has its origins in both Hellenism and Hebraism. The Greeks believed that inspiration came from the muses, as well as the Gods Apollo and Dionysus.

I am thinking if inspiration happens subconsciously then our busy lives can take over our conscious minds, we’re preoccupied and we don’t allow inspiration in.

So, what inspires you? What is the thing that “breathes upon” you and gets you going? For me it can be a sunrise or a sunset, a walk on the beach, a kiss from our little puppy Lily. What comes to mind is that it doesn’t have to be a big thing, it can be very simple, very easy to find. I am feeling inspired by writing this blog, I am feeling better, my mind is occupied by the things I enjoy.

I recently asked a dear friend of mine what inspires her and she said her first cup of coffee in the morning. I think it may be simple but actually really smart, not only is it something that stimulates you, feels warm and is very tasty but it’s a necessary staple for many in the morning.

Maybe some people feel the way I have, uninspired. Maybe it is part of the cycle we all go through. Maybe inspiration can sound like a scream one time and then turn to a whisper other times in our lives.

I am looking forward to my first cup of coffee tomorrow morning. Maybe I will put coffee on my bum in hopes of less cellulite. Maybe I will find  inspiration.

Have Bad Skin Habits?

Do you do these bad habits? Look at the check list below… if your doing more than 3 of them; you need to break your habits!!!
1. Not removing makeup. This one is pretty basic, but it still needs to be said. Taking off your makeup before you go to sleep at night is so important.Think of your skin as the windshield of your car.  Toxins, oil, dirt, debris, makeup, free radicals, spores, mold, dust, and many more microscopic particles attach to your skin throughout the day. Wash once to get all the debris off and then wash again (it is like using Windex on the glass. To take it a step further, I love to use my Clairsonic brush too… www.clairsonic.com %60 more debris are removed by using the brush!!!
2. Not wearing sunscreen Apply a sunscreen or moisturizer with SPF everyday to protect it from the harmful rays. Your face (and health) will thank you later.  I use my makeup for my SPF. I apply in the morning and throughout the day. www.randejames.com
3. Not drinking enough water. Only %5 of all the water intake throughout the day ever reaches your skin. The skin is the largest organ of the body and the lowest on the totem pole for water. Take your body weight, divide it by 2 and that is how many ounces of water you should consume a day. This is really a good challenge for you. Try it and you will notice your skin looking and feeling better!!!
4. Using bar soap to wash your face *Shudders*. There is no need, or excuse to be using a bar soap to wash your face with.  Every skin care line from an Over the Counter (OTC) to a prescription/pharmaceutical Skin care lines ALL have a wash. Figure out your skin type and choose accordingly.
5. Using moisturizer on the eyes. Use eye cream! The skin around your eyes is very delicate. Most skin care lines have an eye cream specifically for this delicate area. Most moisturizer can actually harm this delicate skin rather than help it… read the ingredients. Choose your eye cream in accordance to your skin condition (wrinkles, dark circles, puffiness etc.).
6. Wearing foundation that does not match your skin tone. NO ONE likes a demarkation line!!! If you’re unsure about what foundation you ought to be using, try a couple out at a cosmetics counter and have one of the makeup artists help you to find a formula and color that accurately matches your skin’s tone and texture. My favorite line is Randy James Lebrecque’s line Rande James Cosmetics. www.randejames.com He is in Saint Petersburg and time is running out to get a chance to work with him personally… get in to see him!!!
7. Smoking…. I can say a lot here but I think we all know enough about what smoke does to the body and skin. QUIT!
If you have any of these bad habits… break them. You will look better, feel better and your skin and health will thank you later!