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Make a Point to Stand Out!!!

Coming up on my 18th year of being a skin therapist, I reflect back on all my tools that I use in my arson for anti-aging, relaxation, result orientation skin care and acne problems. One of the most tried and true treatments that I incorporate with every facial that I perform are pressure points. I first learned about pressure points at the Aveda Institute during my education for getting my aesthetics license. I remember sitting with my class outside (being that it was Minneapolis we didn’t get outside much). I had a fellow students head in my lap while she laid in the grass and I learned the technique. 90% of my new clients say, “I have never had a facial like that before!” I believe I stand out because I give them a pressure point massage. I want you as a therapist to have a technique that stands out from the rest. For me, I stand out because of my  pressure point massage and the use of high frequency, I’ll explain the importance of High Frequency in a future blog and featured article for Les Nouvelles Esthetique and Spa magazine.
You can incorporate pressure points at any time, with any facial. For example, if I cannot perform a massage due to red and irritated skin (roseacea, acne or post exfoliation treatment), I simply perform the main 15 points on the face. This relaxes the client, their muscles, increases blood flow, all the while not rubbing their face and increasing the irritation. I like to perform pressure points while they have a hydrating mask on; I perform right through the mask. You can also perform pressure points during the facial massage. I believe as Aestheticians, we are all our own chefs in the kitchen. We have our own flow, use different ingredients and liken our facial to our menu. There are no right or wrongs to when we perform pressure points on our clients.
There are fifteen points on the face that represent areas and systems within the body.
Facial Pressure Point Massage Chart

Facial Pressure Point Massage Chart

There are several types of pressure points – each is applied differently and each creates a different effect. Most pressure points are located on pathways on the nervous system. Some pressure points produce pain when struck, pressed, or rubbed, depending on the point itself. These points are also referred to as nerve centers. In acupressure, you compress key energy points on the skin’s surface with your fingers to stimulate your body’s natural healing abilities. Different kinds of pressure on the pressure points achieves different results, but the most common type of acupressure application is firm, prolonged pressure, from 1 to 3 minutes. You locate a point; sink in gradually with your finger, thumb, heel, or side of your hand; and hold it for at least 1 minute to calm and relax the nervous system. The depth to which you sink into a point should be enough to cause your partner to perceive it as a “good hurt”—a bit tender but so it feels as if it’s doing some good. Also remember to never break contact, rotate back and forth with your hands.
reflexologyfacemapkey
It’s important that both you and your partner breathe fully and deeply during the application of acupressure. Your partner’s deep breathing allows the points to release pain and tension and promote the flow of healing energy throughout the body. Your partner will feel her ability to regulate the steady amount of pressure you’re exerting with your finger, as the pressure increases on her inhalations and decreases with her exhalations, regardless of where on the body you are pressing. Your deep and steady breath will not only help keep you focused and centered on what you’re doing, but will also remind your partner to maintain a steady breathing pattern.
  • Never apply any finger pressure in a jarring or abrupt way.
  • Never loose contact
  • Remeber to breathe with your clients
  • Avoid areas of broken skin or recent scars.
I find the following pressure points to be the best during a facial pressure point massage:
The Third Eye Pressure Point
The Third Eye point is in the indentation at the bridge of the nose between the eyebrows. This is a useful point for relieving anxiety, stress, chronic fatigue, and headaches. I like to start with this pressure point.
The Gallbladder 2- headache pain
The Gallbladder 2 is a fingertip-size point where the top of the ear joins side of the face and is useful for alleviating headache pain, especially vascular headaches and migraines.
Shoulder Well
The Shoulder Well point is on the highest part of the shoulder, slightly closer to the neck than midway between the base of the neck and the outer point of the shoulder. It relieves anxiety, fatigue, shoulder tension, and headaches.
Drilling Bamboo pressure points

The Drilling Bamboo points are in the indentation of the inner eye socket just below the middle point of the eyebrows. They relieve sinus pain and congestion and eyestrain.

The Welcoming Perfume pressure points

The Welcoming Perfume points are just to the sides of the nostrils, by the nasal crease. These points are good for sinus congestion and pain.
The Facial Beauty pressure points

The Facial Beauty points lie directly below the pupils of the eyes as your partner is looking straight ahead, just under the edge of the cheekbone. These points help sinus pain and congestion, as well as eye fatigue.

Water is important because an increase in blood circulation means the body will get rid of waste quicker, it will make your reflexology treatment so much more successful if you follow these last two steps.1 Get the person receiving face reflexology a big glass of water. 2 Tell them to take it easy for the rest of the day and keep up the water

Relaxation is important. It allows people to stop and take time out from the stresses and obligations of life, relaxing is the same as hitting a reset button and these buttons are pressure points! And often can make us more efficient and happy just for having done it. Helping someone relax is helping them stay healthy. I encourage you to try, practice and stand out!

Look for this article in Les Nouvelles Esthetique & Spa magazine, Feb 2013 www.LNEONLINE.com

Jennifer M. Anderson’s Introduction Video

This video says it all… who I am, what I do and how I can help you!

Thank You Carrie for the video!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKg-0bZFftg

Carrie Rokosz Managing Partner-Owner

727-631-1735

CarrieRokosz@me.com

ROKOSZ Studios

Q & A Microdermabrasion from A to Z

There are a lot of misnomer’s about Microdermabrasion. I wanted to break the entire process down for you, explain each detail of what it is, how it works and what it can do for your clients skin. I believe this is a powerful tool in an Aestheticians room and should be utilized.

What is Microdermabrasion?

Let’s break it down…

Micro/Derm/Abrasion: Microsopically Abrade (remove) the top layer of the Epidermis to improve the skins elasticity, texture and clarity.

A physical (not chemical in which certain acids dissolve the despinosum which is the glue that hold all the dead cells in its place) removal of dead skin cells by way of a flow of crystals (aluminum oxide, salt, baking soda, oatmeal or diamond tip) that loosen and lift the cells, then a vacuum (negative pressure) draws the skin close to the apparatus, sweeps away the cells and crystals while increasing circulation of lymph and blood. Under the microscope, the skin looks like overlapping fish scales.

 

How does microdermabrasion create results?

There are two ways Microdermabrasion create results, Epidermis and the Subcutanious layers of the skin.

Epidermis- the surface of the skin.  The skin is alive and will protect itself and when you exfoliate the skin it goes into survival mode. The Basal Layer (I like to call it the nursery) is where all the cells are produced and it start kicking out new cells, these new cells replace the old cells that are removed from the Epidermis, hence cellular turnover is increased. During this process collagen and elastin fibroblasts (connective fibers of the skin that supports the skins form) both get stimulated and increases the firmness of the skin. I like to explain to my clients in this way, “Microdermabrasion is a controlled trauma procedure. The nursery layer where all the cells are generated from gets stimulated. After 3-4 treatments depending on the client, the Basel Layer gets fatigued and calls for back up from the dermis and then collagen and elastin are produced.”

subcutaneous under the skin where blood and lymph are present. Lymph and blood flow are increased due to the negative pressure that removes the crystals and dead skin cells from the surface of the skin and draws them back into the machine. Lymph is the toxic waste dump of the body and has two functions; lymph supplies all cells with moisture and nutrients. Lymph also draws toxins away from cells keeping them in optimal health. Lymph does not move throughout the body on its own; it moves by way of muscle contraction, message and natural body movement. There is a specific direction to move the apparatus so that the negative pressure (massage) can be fully utilized, always moving out and down towards the lymph nodes that specifically filter the lymph. Oxidation to the skin happens when the negative pressure not only moves the lymph but also draws blood to the surface of the skin which stimulates circulation nourishing and oxidizing the skin.

 

What is the treatment regime?

Anyone who wants healthier and younger looking skin can have a treatment done, age is applicable on what the client is trying to achieve. Clients can have 1 treatment per week for consecutive weeks (up to 12 if needed) to achieve optimal results. As a therapist, I want to make sure that a clients goes through their treatment regime to get them through a full cell cycle. Cell cycle can be anywhere from 21-45 days. Getting them through a full cell cycle makes sure that they will have the best results. Having treatments close to one another makes sure that the basal layer is continually stimulated; this is important for elastin and collagen syntheses.

Maintaining is needed and encouraged due to the inability to stop the ageing process. Clients can have 1 treatment per month, the every 3rd month and so on. Remember that all clients are not the same. Each individuals and each have different home regimes and lifestyles. The professional must listen and take account their specific needs and desired results. It is always recommended to each client to use

 

pharmaceutical skin care products with SPF to protect the newly exfoliated skin. When you have removed the dead skin layer, skin care products can be more quickly penetrated, providing the skin with immediate surge of moisture, nutrients, acids and vitamins. Always inform them that 20% of their results happen in the treatment room and 80% of their results happen at home.

What are some things to be aware of?

It is extremely important and it is the professionals responsibility to prescreen each potential clients. .Some clients will not be able to utilize the microdermabrasion procedure because of the following:

*Active or open acne lesions such as pustules.

*Rosecia- depends on each client. Never during a time when the skin has inflammation due to blood circulation.

*pregnancy Hyperpigmentation masking may be stimulated due to hormonal levels.

*dermatitis inflammatory condition that may flare up.

*Broken capillaries the vacuum or negative pressure may further the condition.

*Herpes Simplex I & II- Preexisting condition. Can cause an outbreak for the client.

*HIV & AIDS- The skin is thinned and can cause lesions due to a inefficient immune system

*Diabetes- The skin is extremely compromised with many medications.

*Tattoos- Tattoos can be lightened

What can you expect from getting treatments?

I like to tell my clients that results vary from client to client. I also like to explain that the longer it took to get the skin conditions a client has, the more treatments a client needs. Overall the skin becomes healthier and appears fresher, younger. Sun damage is reversed. The following results can be achieved:

*Hyperpigmentation such as age/liver spots are lightened and/or removed.

*Acne scars and pore size are minimized thus texture of the skin is improved.

*Tone and clarity due to blood and lymph circulation looks evened out.

*Elasticity and firmness are increased due to the exfoliation process.

*Restoration of the skin to its natural beauty and diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles are achieved.

*Decrease of oil production in oily complexions, safe for certain Rosacia clients.

What is a treatment like, from start to finish?

Wear gloves and a mask.

*Cleanse twice with lukewarm water and NO steam, no need to draw up circulation before the use of the vacuum.

*The use of an alcohol based toner/astringent/solution thoroughly dries the skin due to fact evaporation and removes all evidence of cleanser. Since this is a dry process the professional must not leave the skin moist. The use of a 2%-5% chemical acid can start the exfoliating process due to dissolving the dead skin cells even before they are loosened and swept away, and kills bacteria as well.

*Microdermabrasion procedure. Moving the apparatus down and out towards the lymph nodes.

*Removal of all crystals. This differs and depends on which crystals are being utilized.

*Extractions are best and easiest at this time.

*Ultrasound with Vitamin C and retinol (take advantage of the skin)

*Mask application re nourishes, moisturizes, calms and treats.

*Moisturizer with an SPF to protect the new skin from further damage. This skin is now photosensitive.

I recommend everyone try a treatment. Do your homework and get one!!! Happy Exfoliating everyone!

‘The Beauty Blueprint Project #1

And so let the true therapy begin…

 

 

I was so grateful when Michelle Phillips contacted me asking to be a guest on my About FACE Internet radio show which broadcasts on Rhino On Air at 9am Thursdays EST. (www.rhinoonair.com)  As I do with all my guests, I googled her and discovered wow, she is not only an amazing and accomplished celebrity makeup artist but a motivational speaker, Life Coach, TV and radio host as well as being a bestselling Hay House author. Michelle guested on my show last week and what impressed me was, not only her extensive range of celebrity clientele but her grace and spirit.

 

Michelle presented me with her book “The Beauty Blueprint” as a personal thank you for being a guest and I promised her then that I would read her book, do the exercises and then blog about my discoveries. As I originally mentioned in my first blog, “In the Beginning” this is not only intended to be informative but I genuinely feel it will also act as great therapy for me. I cannot think of a better book than this to allow me to rediscover who I am from the inside and help reclaim the essence of what makes me uniquely beautiful.  I know that these findings and this deep inner self discovery will act as a satisfying and absorbing read.

 

The moment I received my book I devoured the first part of it and it brought me to tears.  “The Inspiration for the Beauty Blueprint” is the title of the preface of Michelle Phillips’ book “The Beauty Blueprint” www.michellephillips.com and in there I found just that, inspiration. I have been feeling less than inspired lately and this could be the catalyst to change that. I believe that everything begins with what is going on in the mind which ultimately affects your attitude.

 

I want to embrace change. It might appear scary at first but I know that with that change I will grow as a person. I WILL embrace it. I have felt for a while now that I have been in a rut and I am looking forward to this change.

 

I am looking forward to sharing with you what I learn from this book, my findings and genuinely hope it will inspire you in much the same way.

 

Cheers to therapy!

 

 

 

 

Minerals, Liquid and Talc, Oh My!

Minerals, Liquid and Talc... Oh My!

In my previous blog, ‘So many lines, so little time’ I wrote about how to specifically decipher between all the lines out there in skincare land. I next thought about all the makeup lines an all the choices of specific foundations to choose from. I wanted to break down all the formulations out there for you in order to choose the right one out there for you and your clients.

Are you confused on which is the right for you? Do you even know the difference between mineral, talc or liquids? Do you know that there are different levels or grades of products out there? If your confused then this blog is for you.

Let me break it down for you.

Minerals: Minerals are bio-inert. Bio-inert means that there isn’t a chemical or physical reaction between the skin and the makeup. Minerals and pigments are micro-pulverized using proprietary technology into microscopic flat particles. These particles overlap each other on the skin to allow the skin to breath and function properly while filtering out airborne pollutants. There is great staying power to minerals that rarely need touch ups throughout the day. Chemical free, preservative free and the pharmaceutical grade minerals are TALC FREE!!! The minerals are also smear proof and water resistant. Minerals have buildable coverage as well. Minerals are great for concealing so you don’t need another product. It is your liquid, power and concealer all in one.

Liquids: Liquid foundations have a liquid lotion base and pigments added for color and coverage. Many have chemicals, preservatives and parabins.

Tinted moisturizer– It is a lotion and pigments combined, 80% lotion and 20% pigment. VERY sheer coverage. Tinted moisturizer is perfect for softening and protecting the skin while adding a hint of foundation color. This makeup is also ideal because you don’t have to put on moisturizer and then foundation, it’s a one step process.

Liquid Foundation– 40% lotion and 60% pigments. MOST airbrush makeup utilizes a liquid foundation however, they add water so the spray won’t get clogged. This is great for easy application, personally I think it’s a fad. It may look cool but the makeup artist must carry the machine which might be cumbersome. Women with oily skin should avoid dewy finish foundation and should set any liquid foundation with a translucent powder to reduce shine.

Whipped Foundation– This is a liquid foundation that has been whipped with air. Mousse makeup is liquid makeup with air whipped in making it lighter and smoother. It comes in a spray or aerosol-type can, like whipped cream. It costs more than other cosmetics because you’re paying for the added air and specialized packaging but if you’ve ever spread whipped butter on a hot piece of toast then you’ll know the difference is vast. Whipped foundation is good for all skin types.

Talc: Talc is a mineral produced by the mining of talc rocks and then processed by crushing, drying and milling. Processing eliminates a number of trace minerals from the talc but does not separate minute fibers which are very similar to asbestos. Talc is toxic and talc particles can cause tumors in human ovaries and lungs. Numerous studies have shown a strong link between frequent use of talc in the female genital area and ovarian cancer. Talc particles are able to move through the reproductive system and become embedded in the lining of the ovary. Clearly with or without asbestos-like fibers, cosmetic grade talcum powder is a carcinogen.

I don’t mean to scare you about talc, as you probably gathered I am just not a fan of the stuff. I have been pro minerals ever since 1996 when I was a sales representative with Jane Iredale.

What I encourage you to do is be astute to the products you are going to personally use and the products you are going to use for your clients. Read labels, study the new technology, do your homework. I also would like to encourage you to try all the forms of makeup out on yourself. If you love a product yourself you will always be better at selling it.

Go to your makeup bag, empty it, go through it and then start to throw liquid items away if they are more than 3 months old. Now you have made a start.

So Many Skincare Lines, So Little Time

I was stood in the middle of a huge expanse in the Miami Convention Center at the International Congress of Esthetics and Spa surrounded by hundreds of different skincare lines and feeling, not only overwhelmed but incredibly excited. There were so many lines biding for the attention of the professionals in the hope of a sale and for the opportunity to utilize their skincare line in the professionals practice.

While I think every line is great and  every line has its place, not every line is perfect. Every line is known to have its ‘star product.’ I used to say this all the time when I was a sales representative specializing in outbound sales. First I was careful not to speak negatively about any of the competitors and I would also make sure I was astute to all the ingredients, buzz words and new technology that not only my line had, but my competitors had too.

I have a standard in why I pick and choose the products I work with. My standard is that I have extensive knowledge of the company and the specific ingredients in each bottle. I also know that it works on a personal level as well. Some professionals make their choice by what they learned in school while others choose the philosophy behind the line.

I write this for anyone who is pondering what line to carry in their practice. The following list are specific elements that a line should have. They read as an A to Z.

Here you go then. Regarding the products you use on your clients:
1) Are they certified toxic free?

2) Do they contain no hormone disruptor’s or age accelerators?
4) Do they go beyond natural and organic to “inhibit” cancer?
5) Do they reach and feed the “mother cells”?
6) Do they restore and repair broken capillaries?
7) Do they provide a unique one-of-a-kind luxurious experience?
8) Are they made with organic ingredients and contains “live” fresh resveratrol?
9) Do they naturally contain antioxidants and phenolic compounds?
10) Are they all natural but deliver cosmeceutical strength with visible results on the first application?
11) Are they all backed by clinical human trials to “inhibit” skin cancer?
12) Do they reduce free radical activity?
13) Do they stimulate cell energy?
14) Do they rapidly improve and heal acne, rosacea, dermatitis, seborrhea or any other skin conditions?
15)  Are they healthy for the whole body?
14) Do they provide oral supplementation for body and skin?
Chemicals are OUT. The “baby boomers” want to look good. Luxury proven ANTI-CANCER is IN and spreading like wild fire!

I hope this helps you to make the right decision on what line to choose for your practice. I also hope this opens your mind to all the skincare lines out there and remember, every skincare line has its place and every skincare line has its star product.

So many lines, so little time. Just take your time and find the best fit for you!

Bring Home the Bacon… Now Where’s the Pan?

... and fry it up in a pan.... ‘I’m a Woman,’ written by Lieber and Stoller and performed by the late Peggy Lee became famous for the Enjoli perfume commercials of the 1970s. Some however, may remember it differently as the duet with Raquel Welch and Miss Piggy on The Muppet Show!

It is a song of inspiration about the amazing feats that women perform every day and although I am constantly aware of this, do I really understand exactly what kind of feats they are referring to? I might not be saving lives, ending wars and giving all my money to charities but I do know of the amazing feats I perform for women every day. It goes a long way to helping women feel better about themselves, it’s rewarding and it inspires me.

This all began in my car this morning as I cruised over the Sunshine Skyway Bridge and into the dawn of a glorious new day. (For those who don’t know, The Skyway bridge is the tallest, most majestic bridge in Tampa Bay connecting South Shore to Saint Petersburg.) Then suddenly as if by an amazing feat itself I found myself humming this very same song. I smiled.

Although I drive this same bridge everyday somehow today felt different, very different. Partial as I am to random humming, I have no idea why I began humming “I’m a Woman” this morning, it’s not as though it was on the radio or anything. In fact I hadn’t thought about the song in ages but just in that moment I was transported back and began thinking of how powerful women in business really are. I also began thinking how I feel when I am working on a woman’s face. How totally focused I am on getting her the results she is expecting, hand holding with every step. It is fulfilling and as I feel empowered, I am empowering them too. It is the most natural of motivations and makes me forever grateful for what I do.

I was also thinking about networking, due mainly to the rather large, bright pink directory of Working Women of Tampa Bay that is resting on the front seat of my car. (www.workingwomenoftampabay.com)  It made me think of all the women out there who are working and of those who are the only bread winners in the family. I paused to think a while.

Just prior to breaking in to my first hum of the day I had just finished a telephone conversation with Heather Sakelariou, owner and fellow Aesthetician of Heather’s Day Spa www.HeathersDaySpa.com. I had just booked her for my March 22nd. About FACE show on Rhino On Air www.rhinoonair.com and she shared with me about how much she does for her family. She is both gracious and humble. She is happy and she is inspiring. People like this are such a pleasure to work with, every day they stride forward with a purpose.

I also pondered over ‘About BEAUTY’ and I secretly hoped it would be a success.

As I said “In the Beginning” this is therapy for me. I reflect on my thought process, my own fears and insecurities and my hopes and aspirations for the future. With that comes a true, very real respect for women. We are powerful, we are strong and we are united.

We are women… now where was my pan?