The Waxing Facial
There are a lot of misnomer’s about Microdermabrasion. I wanted to break the entire process down for you, explain each detail of what it is, how it works and what it can do for your clients skin. I believe this is a powerful tool in an Aestheticians room and should be utilized.
What is Microdermabrasion?
Let’s break it down…
Micro/Derm/Abrasion: Microsopically Abrade (remove) the top layer of the Epidermis to improve the skins elasticity, texture and clarity.
A physical (not chemical in which certain acids dissolve the despinosum which is the glue that hold all the dead cells in its place) removal of dead skin cells by way of a flow of crystals (aluminum oxide, salt, baking soda, oatmeal or diamond tip) that loosen and lift the cells, then a vacuum (negative pressure) draws the skin close to the apparatus, sweeps away the cells and crystals while increasing circulation of lymph and blood. Under the microscope, the skin looks like overlapping fish scales.
How does microdermabrasion create results?
There are two ways Microdermabrasion create results, Epidermis and the Subcutanious layers of the skin.
Epidermis- the surface of the skin. The skin is alive and will protect itself and when you exfoliate the skin it goes into survival mode. The Basal Layer (I like to call it the nursery) is where all the cells are produced and it start kicking out new cells, these new cells replace the old cells that are removed from the Epidermis, hence cellular turnover is increased. During this process collagen and elastin fibroblasts (connective fibers of the skin that supports the skins form) both get stimulated and increases the firmness of the skin. I like to explain to my clients in this way, “Microdermabrasion is a controlled trauma procedure. The nursery layer where all the cells are generated from gets stimulated. After 3-4 treatments depending on the client, the Basel Layer gets fatigued and calls for back up from the dermis and then collagen and elastin are produced.”
subcutaneous under the skin where blood and lymph are present. Lymph and blood flow are increased due to the negative pressure that removes the crystals and dead skin cells from the surface of the skin and draws them back into the machine. Lymph is the toxic waste dump of the body and has two functions; lymph supplies all cells with moisture and nutrients. Lymph also draws toxins away from cells keeping them in optimal health. Lymph does not move throughout the body on its own; it moves by way of muscle contraction, message and natural body movement. There is a specific direction to move the apparatus so that the negative pressure (massage) can be fully utilized, always moving out and down towards the lymph nodes that specifically filter the lymph. Oxidation to the skin happens when the negative pressure not only moves the lymph but also draws blood to the surface of the skin which stimulates circulation nourishing and oxidizing the skin.
What is the treatment regime?
Anyone who wants healthier and younger looking skin can have a treatment done, age is applicable on what the client is trying to achieve. Clients can have 1 treatment per week for consecutive weeks (up to 12 if needed) to achieve optimal results. As a therapist, I want to make sure that a clients goes through their treatment regime to get them through a full cell cycle. Cell cycle can be anywhere from 21-45 days. Getting them through a full cell cycle makes sure that they will have the best results. Having treatments close to one another makes sure that the basal layer is continually stimulated; this is important for elastin and collagen syntheses.
Maintaining is needed and encouraged due to the inability to stop the ageing process. Clients can have 1 treatment per month, the every 3rd month and so on. Remember that all clients are not the same. Each individuals and each have different home regimes and lifestyles. The professional must listen and take account their specific needs and desired results. It is always recommended to each client to use
pharmaceutical skin care products with SPF to protect the newly exfoliated skin. When you have removed the dead skin layer, skin care products can be more quickly penetrated, providing the skin with immediate surge of moisture, nutrients, acids and vitamins. Always inform them that 20% of their results happen in the treatment room and 80% of their results happen at home.
What are some things to be aware of?
It is extremely important and it is the professionals responsibility to prescreen each potential clients. .Some clients will not be able to utilize the microdermabrasion procedure because of the following:
*Active or open acne lesions such as pustules.
*Rosecia- depends on each client. Never during a time when the skin has inflammation due to blood circulation.
*pregnancy Hyperpigmentation masking may be stimulated due to hormonal levels.
*dermatitis inflammatory condition that may flare up.
*Broken capillaries the vacuum or negative pressure may further the condition.
*Herpes Simplex I & II- Preexisting condition. Can cause an outbreak for the client.
*HIV & AIDS- The skin is thinned and can cause lesions due to a inefficient immune system
*Diabetes- The skin is extremely compromised with many medications.
*Tattoos- Tattoos can be lightened
What can you expect from getting treatments?
I like to tell my clients that results vary from client to client. I also like to explain that the longer it took to get the skin conditions a client has, the more treatments a client needs. Overall the skin becomes healthier and appears fresher, younger. Sun damage is reversed. The following results can be achieved:
*Hyperpigmentation such as age/liver spots are lightened and/or removed.
*Acne scars and pore size are minimized thus texture of the skin is improved.
*Tone and clarity due to blood and lymph circulation looks evened out.
*Elasticity and firmness are increased due to the exfoliation process.
*Restoration of the skin to its natural beauty and diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles are achieved.
*Decrease of oil production in oily complexions, safe for certain Rosacia clients.
What is a treatment like, from start to finish?
Wear gloves and a mask.
*Cleanse twice with lukewarm water and NO steam, no need to draw up circulation before the use of the vacuum.
*The use of an alcohol based toner/astringent/solution thoroughly dries the skin due to fact evaporation and removes all evidence of cleanser. Since this is a dry process the professional must not leave the skin moist. The use of a 2%-5% chemical acid can start the exfoliating process due to dissolving the dead skin cells even before they are loosened and swept away, and kills bacteria as well.
*Microdermabrasion procedure. Moving the apparatus down and out towards the lymph nodes.
*Removal of all crystals. This differs and depends on which crystals are being utilized.
*Extractions are best and easiest at this time.
*Ultrasound with Vitamin C and retinol (take advantage of the skin)
*Mask application re nourishes, moisturizes, calms and treats.
*Moisturizer with an SPF to protect the new skin from further damage. This skin is now photosensitive.
I recommend everyone try a treatment. Do your homework and get one!!! Happy Exfoliating everyone!
There are many misnomers about sunscreen, sun block and all of the rays out there. I would like to try and shed some light on the subject.
It’s very easy to get overwhelmed with the sunscreen options on offer on store shelves so here’s a quick guide to try and help find the best products to protect your family from the sun:
In my previous blog, ‘So many lines, so little time’ I wrote about how to specifically decipher between all the lines out there in skincare land. I next thought about all the makeup lines an all the choices of specific foundations to choose from. I wanted to break down all the formulations out there for you in order to choose the right one out there for you and your clients.
Are you confused on which is the right for you? Do you even know the difference between mineral, talc or liquids? Do you know that there are different levels or grades of products out there? If your confused then this blog is for you.
Let me break it down for you.
Minerals: Minerals are bio-inert. Bio-inert means that there isn’t a chemical or physical reaction between the skin and the makeup. Minerals and pigments are micro-pulverized using proprietary technology into microscopic flat particles. These particles overlap each other on the skin to allow the skin to breath and function properly while filtering out airborne pollutants. There is great staying power to minerals that rarely need touch ups throughout the day. Chemical free, preservative free and the pharmaceutical grade minerals are TALC FREE!!! The minerals are also smear proof and water resistant. Minerals have buildable coverage as well. Minerals are great for concealing so you don’t need another product. It is your liquid, power and concealer all in one.
Liquids: Liquid foundations have a liquid lotion base and pigments added for color and coverage. Many have chemicals, preservatives and parabins.
Tinted moisturizer– It is a lotion and pigments combined, 80% lotion and 20% pigment. VERY sheer coverage. Tinted moisturizer is perfect for softening and protecting the skin while adding a hint of foundation color. This makeup is also ideal because you don’t have to put on moisturizer and then foundation, it’s a one step process.
Liquid Foundation– 40% lotion and 60% pigments. MOST airbrush makeup utilizes a liquid foundation however, they add water so the spray won’t get clogged. This is great for easy application, personally I think it’s a fad. It may look cool but the makeup artist must carry the machine which might be cumbersome. Women with oily skin should avoid dewy finish foundation and should set any liquid foundation with a translucent powder to reduce shine.
Whipped Foundation– This is a liquid foundation that has been whipped with air. Mousse makeup is liquid makeup with air whipped in making it lighter and smoother. It comes in a spray or aerosol-type can, like whipped cream. It costs more than other cosmetics because you’re paying for the added air and specialized packaging but if you’ve ever spread whipped butter on a hot piece of toast then you’ll know the difference is vast. Whipped foundation is good for all skin types.
Talc: Talc is a mineral produced by the mining of talc rocks and then processed by crushing, drying and milling. Processing eliminates a number of trace minerals from the talc but does not separate minute fibers which are very similar to asbestos. Talc is toxic and talc particles can cause tumors in human ovaries and lungs. Numerous studies have shown a strong link between frequent use of talc in the female genital area and ovarian cancer. Talc particles are able to move through the reproductive system and become embedded in the lining of the ovary. Clearly with or without asbestos-like fibers, cosmetic grade talcum powder is a carcinogen.
I don’t mean to scare you about talc, as you probably gathered I am just not a fan of the stuff. I have been pro minerals ever since 1996 when I was a sales representative with Jane Iredale.
What I encourage you to do is be astute to the products you are going to personally use and the products you are going to use for your clients. Read labels, study the new technology, do your homework. I also would like to encourage you to try all the forms of makeup out on yourself. If you love a product yourself you will always be better at selling it.
Go to your makeup bag, empty it, go through it and then start to throw liquid items away if they are more than 3 months old. Now you have made a start.
I was stood in the middle of a huge expanse in the Miami Convention Center at the International Congress of Esthetics and Spa surrounded by hundreds of different skincare lines and feeling, not only overwhelmed but incredibly excited. There were so many lines biding for the attention of the professionals in the hope of a sale and for the opportunity to utilize their skincare line in the professionals practice.
While I think every line is great and every line has its place, not every line is perfect. Every line is known to have its ‘star product.’ I used to say this all the time when I was a sales representative specializing in outbound sales. First I was careful not to speak negatively about any of the competitors and I would also make sure I was astute to all the ingredients, buzz words and new technology that not only my line had, but my competitors had too.
I have a standard in why I pick and choose the products I work with. My standard is that I have extensive knowledge of the company and the specific ingredients in each bottle. I also know that it works on a personal level as well. Some professionals make their choice by what they learned in school while others choose the philosophy behind the line.
I write this for anyone who is pondering what line to carry in their practice. The following list are specific elements that a line should have. They read as an A to Z.
Here you go then. Regarding the products you use on your clients:
1) Are they certified toxic free?
2) Do they contain no hormone disruptor’s or age accelerators?
4) Do they go beyond natural and organic to “inhibit” cancer?
5) Do they reach and feed the “mother cells”?
6) Do they restore and repair broken capillaries?
7) Do they provide a unique one-of-a-kind luxurious experience?
8) Are they made with organic ingredients and contains “live” fresh resveratrol?
9) Do they naturally contain antioxidants and phenolic compounds?
10) Are they all natural but deliver cosmeceutical strength with visible results on the first application?
11) Are they all backed by clinical human trials to “inhibit” skin cancer?
12) Do they reduce free radical activity?
13) Do they stimulate cell energy?
14) Do they rapidly improve and heal acne, rosacea, dermatitis, seborrhea or any other skin conditions?
15) Are they healthy for the whole body?
14) Do they provide oral supplementation for body and skin?
Chemicals are OUT. The “baby boomers” want to look good. Luxury proven ANTI-CANCER is IN and spreading like wild fire!
I hope this helps you to make the right decision on what line to choose for your practice. I also hope this opens your mind to all the skincare lines out there and remember, every skincare line has its place and every skincare line has its star product.
So many lines, so little time. Just take your time and find the best fit for you!
I like to paint a picture in their mind’s eye of all the layers, what they each do and which layer you are working with. I start by explaining the function of the skin as a whole and then break each layer down. I like to clarify by saying, “The skin is alive and it will repair itself, I am causing the skin trauma in order for the skin to regenerate and make new cells. These new cells go on to replace the old cells.”
Understanding the anatomy and physiology of the skin can provide insight to the measures that can be made to minimize the damage that can surface due to exfoliation treatments. Personally I like to paint the picture all the layers of the skin, including muscle tissue as a bed. This helps your client to understand of how deep the treatment penetrates and which part of the Epidermis, Dermis and Subcutainous layers that I am stimulating.
Lets break it down…
Comforter= Top Layer of the Epidermis- (Stratum Corneum)- Removal of the comforter by way of bio-chemicals (enzymes), chemical (AHA, BHA, Jessner and TCA) or physical treatment (Microdermabrasion, pumice, etc) allows any treatment to penetrate deeper.
When I stimulate the comforter by removing the top layer of the skin I put the skin in defense mode, thus results are inevitable.
Blankets= Medium or “between” layers of the epidermis (Stratum Lucidium, Granulosum, Spinosum, Germinativum)- The blanket layer is always regenerating every 28-42 days depending on age, lifestyle and genes. The cell cycle is exactly what the treatments are trying to encourage, a speed up of the cycle itself. This is great for wrinkles, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, un-even skin tone and pore size.
Sheets=Stratum germinativum also called the”stratum basale” or the nursery where all the cells are generated. This is a crucial layer for the client to understand as this layer is where the skin makes cells because of stimulating treatments. New cells replace the old cells.
Mattress= Subcutaneous Layer- Collagen and elastin are the building block and structure of the skin. Elastin fibers give skin its ‘rubber bands’, – its ‘snap-back quality’. Sagging skin is lacking youthful levels of elastin fibers . Wrinkles form because there is elastin fiber deficient (sagging) skin lying over the moving muscles of your face. Stimulating exfoliating treatments treats this loss of important elastin fiber by returning the elastin content of your skin to that of elastic, youthful skin.
Box Spring= Muscle layer. This is where the main structure of our skin covers. Muscles need to be massaged and stimulated in the same way our skin does. Muscle tension can cause wrinkles such as crow’s feet, labial folds and forehead lines. Memory lines. Treatments such as micro-current www.beautifulimagellc.com and high frequency can stimulate and relax muscle tension.
I hope this helps you understand the structure of the skin, and if you are a service provider like an Aesthetician, then you can be more effective in explaining what exactly what part of the face you are working on.
Please keep you eye out for this is an exerpt from the article I am writing for Les Nouvelles Esthetique & Spa or visit www.www.lneonline.com that should be published in this years May issue.