The Waxing Facial

The Waxing Facial

I have been doing waxing facials throughout my career. Most Aestheticians that I speak to have never heard of this concept. I would like to share this concept with you. This type of facial is for the Aesthetician who understands the skin and waxing procedures, and not afraid to combine them. If you break down a facial, waxing is done in laue of the exfoliation stage. Waxing exfoliates the skin naturally. Think of this facial as a cool facial, DO NOT USE STEAM OR HOT TOWELS!!! This facial does not include a massage as well. This facial can be done using strip or stripless wax. I personally prefer stripless or hot wax for the face. The hot wax doesn’t adhere to the delicate facial skin because of a protective barrier by using an oil. The wax only adheres to the hair only. With stripless or hot wax, you also can go over the treated area more than once, this helps to make sure you get every hair. This is why I prefer stripless or hot wax for Brazilians as well.

The Waxing Facial Protocol

Cleanse- Use a cleanser that is strictly for the clients skin type

Tone- Prepare the skin for wax. Many wax manufactures provide a pre-cleanser or toner.

Oil- Thinly and sparingly apply a prewaxing oil. If you utilize a strip wax, then apply powder. I personally don’t care for Johnson and Johnson’s because it has fragrance in it.

Wax- I use ONLY Stripless/Hot Wax

Start with Chin and move clockwise. It is as if you are plowing a field. By using Stripless wax you can slightly overlap your areas. This makes sure you do not miss any hairs. I like to finish with the brows.

Post waxing solution if wax residue is left behind.

Mask- Aloe/CoolingSoothing Mask allows the skin to calm down.

High Frequency- I use the mushroom bulb through the mask. High Frequency kills all bacteria.

Remove the mask with a cool towel.

Vitamin C- Anti Inflammatory

SPF- this is a must. Any exfoliation procedure elivated photo sensitivity

Contraindications

As skin therapist, we understand the basics in dealing with contraindications with waxing, however the facial skin is different. If the client is having exfoliation treatments such as microdermabrasion, chemical peels or even enzymes,  the skin has been compromised. The ability of removing skin is greatly increased. Prescription creams can cause trouble as well. Please stay abreast on common prescriptions that doctors give their patients, they may just be on your table. Make sure your intake form has been studied before any waxing is provided. As a cautionary time line, I prefer 1 month out of the use of ANY Alpha or Beta Hydroxy’s such as Glycolic’s, Salicylic, Lactic or Mandelic home care products or treatments. If the client is taking antibiotics or are on a course of medical skin treatment(s) such as Accutane, Retinol, Retin-A, or Renova, hold off on waxing until you have finished the medication and the chemicals are out of their system. These medications should be listed on your intake form for your clients and patients to indicate. Having a “clean” skin palette is the key to prepping their face for waxing, and has as much to do with what’s not present — as well as what is. Make sure the face is free of any injured areas which includes minor cuts, irritated pimples, or a sunburn. If your client is pregnant, they are more likely to be sensitive to waxing, and diabetics typically take longer to heal after a wax.

On the menu…

When I have listed “Waxing Facial” on my spa menu, this sparks peoples interest. This is why your spa menu is another avenue of advertisement and not just a list of treatments and prices. This tells your clients that you are prolific with facial waxing. I like to have The Waxing Facial on the menu booked out for 1 hour. This time allots you to be thorough. As you work with your clients and become comfortable then you can do the Waxing Facial for 30 minutes. Your pricing should be comperable to a basic 60 min and 30 min facial, minus $20 (for example, if your 60 minute European Facial is $85, then your Waxing Facial should be $65). Waxing is one of the most rewarding treatments we can do in our rooms because you give them immediate results and has the highest loyalty rate. When a clients mind is sparked with the possibilities of a hairless face, they book. —

If you are interested in having the Waxing Facial with me, I am at Essentials Spa in Wesley Chapel on Fridays and Sat’s! http://www.myessentialsspa.com/

Q & A Microdermabrasion from A to Z

There are a lot of misnomer’s about Microdermabrasion. I wanted to break the entire process down for you, explain each detail of what it is, how it works and what it can do for your clients skin. I believe this is a powerful tool in an Aestheticians room and should be utilized.

What is Microdermabrasion?

Let’s break it down…

Micro/Derm/Abrasion: Microsopically Abrade (remove) the top layer of the Epidermis to improve the skins elasticity, texture and clarity.

A physical (not chemical in which certain acids dissolve the despinosum which is the glue that hold all the dead cells in its place) removal of dead skin cells by way of a flow of crystals (aluminum oxide, salt, baking soda, oatmeal or diamond tip) that loosen and lift the cells, then a vacuum (negative pressure) draws the skin close to the apparatus, sweeps away the cells and crystals while increasing circulation of lymph and blood. Under the microscope, the skin looks like overlapping fish scales.

 

How does microdermabrasion create results?

There are two ways Microdermabrasion create results, Epidermis and the Subcutanious layers of the skin.

Epidermis- the surface of the skin.  The skin is alive and will protect itself and when you exfoliate the skin it goes into survival mode. The Basal Layer (I like to call it the nursery) is where all the cells are produced and it start kicking out new cells, these new cells replace the old cells that are removed from the Epidermis, hence cellular turnover is increased. During this process collagen and elastin fibroblasts (connective fibers of the skin that supports the skins form) both get stimulated and increases the firmness of the skin. I like to explain to my clients in this way, “Microdermabrasion is a controlled trauma procedure. The nursery layer where all the cells are generated from gets stimulated. After 3-4 treatments depending on the client, the Basel Layer gets fatigued and calls for back up from the dermis and then collagen and elastin are produced.”

subcutaneous under the skin where blood and lymph are present. Lymph and blood flow are increased due to the negative pressure that removes the crystals and dead skin cells from the surface of the skin and draws them back into the machine. Lymph is the toxic waste dump of the body and has two functions; lymph supplies all cells with moisture and nutrients. Lymph also draws toxins away from cells keeping them in optimal health. Lymph does not move throughout the body on its own; it moves by way of muscle contraction, message and natural body movement. There is a specific direction to move the apparatus so that the negative pressure (massage) can be fully utilized, always moving out and down towards the lymph nodes that specifically filter the lymph. Oxidation to the skin happens when the negative pressure not only moves the lymph but also draws blood to the surface of the skin which stimulates circulation nourishing and oxidizing the skin.

 

What is the treatment regime?

Anyone who wants healthier and younger looking skin can have a treatment done, age is applicable on what the client is trying to achieve. Clients can have 1 treatment per week for consecutive weeks (up to 12 if needed) to achieve optimal results. As a therapist, I want to make sure that a clients goes through their treatment regime to get them through a full cell cycle. Cell cycle can be anywhere from 21-45 days. Getting them through a full cell cycle makes sure that they will have the best results. Having treatments close to one another makes sure that the basal layer is continually stimulated; this is important for elastin and collagen syntheses.

Maintaining is needed and encouraged due to the inability to stop the ageing process. Clients can have 1 treatment per month, the every 3rd month and so on. Remember that all clients are not the same. Each individuals and each have different home regimes and lifestyles. The professional must listen and take account their specific needs and desired results. It is always recommended to each client to use

 

pharmaceutical skin care products with SPF to protect the newly exfoliated skin. When you have removed the dead skin layer, skin care products can be more quickly penetrated, providing the skin with immediate surge of moisture, nutrients, acids and vitamins. Always inform them that 20% of their results happen in the treatment room and 80% of their results happen at home.

What are some things to be aware of?

It is extremely important and it is the professionals responsibility to prescreen each potential clients. .Some clients will not be able to utilize the microdermabrasion procedure because of the following:

*Active or open acne lesions such as pustules.

*Rosecia- depends on each client. Never during a time when the skin has inflammation due to blood circulation.

*pregnancy Hyperpigmentation masking may be stimulated due to hormonal levels.

*dermatitis inflammatory condition that may flare up.

*Broken capillaries the vacuum or negative pressure may further the condition.

*Herpes Simplex I & II- Preexisting condition. Can cause an outbreak for the client.

*HIV & AIDS- The skin is thinned and can cause lesions due to a inefficient immune system

*Diabetes- The skin is extremely compromised with many medications.

*Tattoos- Tattoos can be lightened

What can you expect from getting treatments?

I like to tell my clients that results vary from client to client. I also like to explain that the longer it took to get the skin conditions a client has, the more treatments a client needs. Overall the skin becomes healthier and appears fresher, younger. Sun damage is reversed. The following results can be achieved:

*Hyperpigmentation such as age/liver spots are lightened and/or removed.

*Acne scars and pore size are minimized thus texture of the skin is improved.

*Tone and clarity due to blood and lymph circulation looks evened out.

*Elasticity and firmness are increased due to the exfoliation process.

*Restoration of the skin to its natural beauty and diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles are achieved.

*Decrease of oil production in oily complexions, safe for certain Rosacia clients.

What is a treatment like, from start to finish?

Wear gloves and a mask.

*Cleanse twice with lukewarm water and NO steam, no need to draw up circulation before the use of the vacuum.

*The use of an alcohol based toner/astringent/solution thoroughly dries the skin due to fact evaporation and removes all evidence of cleanser. Since this is a dry process the professional must not leave the skin moist. The use of a 2%-5% chemical acid can start the exfoliating process due to dissolving the dead skin cells even before they are loosened and swept away, and kills bacteria as well.

*Microdermabrasion procedure. Moving the apparatus down and out towards the lymph nodes.

*Removal of all crystals. This differs and depends on which crystals are being utilized.

*Extractions are best and easiest at this time.

*Ultrasound with Vitamin C and retinol (take advantage of the skin)

*Mask application re nourishes, moisturizes, calms and treats.

*Moisturizer with an SPF to protect the new skin from further damage. This skin is now photosensitive.

I recommend everyone try a treatment. Do your homework and get one!!! Happy Exfoliating everyone!

Wash-On Sunscreen?

Wear your sunscreen… everyday!

There are many misnomers about sunscreen, sun block and all of the rays out there. I would like to try and shed some light on the subject.

On my ‘About FACE’ show this morning (www.rhinoonair.com) I had an exceptional guest by the name of Allyn Armstrong who is a chemical engineer with the skincare/SPF line, Solise.  There are so many misnomers about sun care, ultraviolet rays, product ingredients and chemicals and today’s show struck a particular chord with me. And by writing this I also wanted to share this wonderful new invention with you, use it personally and then report on my findings.

Firstly here are some facts…

Experts say that consumers should not purchase sunscreens with an SPF that is greater than 50. SPF (sun protection factor) works by absorbing, reflecting or scattering the sun’s rays on the skin. It is in fact very misleading to put high SPF numbers on labels because it gives consumers a false sense of security and my research proved just that, there is very little difference between SPF 85 and SPF 30. The higher the number doesn’t always guarantee a greater protection.

Studies show that a sunscreen with a SPF of 15 can block about 93% of all incoming UVB rays, SPF 30 blocks out 97% and  SPF 50 blocks 98%.

The protective factors plateau from there and a product with a SPF of 100 plus blocks about 99.1 percent of all UVB rays. You don’t really need a high number SPF’s, it can end up being very expensive and you’re not guaranteed that much more protection than with a SPF 50. Also keep in mind that SPF protects only against UVB rays.

Cannot get enough sunscreen!!!

It’s very easy to get overwhelmed with the sunscreen options on offer on store shelves so here’s a quick guide to try and help find the best products to protect your family from the sun:

1.    Use a sunscreen with a minimum of SPF 15 and a maximum of SPF 50.

2.    Make sure that labels list UVA and UVB (or broad spectrum protection)

3     Choose lotions versus spray sunscreens for a more evenly distributed protection.

4     Remember to apply at least 2 ounces of lotion (about a shot glass full) and reapply often. The sun breaks down the ingredients in sunscreen that protect your skin and experts always recommend reapplying every two hours or after swimming or heavy sweating.

I would like to thank Allyn Armstrong for sending me this information: In 2012 the FDA made final a number of standards while proposing a cap of the SPF number at 50 plus and reviewing the efficiency of sunscreen sprays. The large body of data does not demonstrate that an SPF number higher than 50 provides any more benefit than an actual SPF 50 provides. An SPF 50 only provides 1% more protection than an SPF 30 and many experts question whether or not that extra 1% can truly be demonstrated outside of the testing environment. We err on the side of scientific research and not from the voices of an independent, un-biased, third party validation from an accredited testing source.

The Oxybenzone   http://www.webmd.com/healthy-beauty/features/sun-safety-sunscreen-and-sun-protection

The SPF Graph      http://www.beautystat.com/site/skincare/2012-fda-final-sunscreen-monograph-new-ingredient-label-requirements-what-is-spf-uva-and-uvb-rays/

“If you are interested in learning or purchasing this new and innovative product visit www.solise.com , and use code SAE76729 for a discount””

I am looking forward to getting my product in the mail! I want to wash on my sun care!

Minerals, Liquid and Talc, Oh My!

In my previous blog, ‘So many lines, so little time’ I wrote about how to specifically decipher between all the lines out there in skincare land. I next thought about all the makeup lines an all the choices of specific foundations to choose from. I wanted to break down all the formulations out there for you in order to choose the right one out there for you and your clients.

Are you confused on which is the right for you? Do you even know the difference between mineral, talc or liquids? Do you know that there are different levels or grades of products out there? If your confused then this blog is for you.

Let me break it down for you.

Minerals: Minerals are bio-inert. Bio-inert means that there isn’t a chemical or physical reaction between the skin and the makeup. Minerals and pigments are micro-pulverized using proprietary technology into microscopic flat particles. These particles overlap each other on the skin to allow the skin to breath and function properly while filtering out airborne pollutants. There is great staying power to minerals that rarely need touch ups throughout the day. Chemical free, preservative free and the pharmaceutical grade minerals are TALC FREE!!! The minerals are also smear proof and water resistant. Minerals have buildable coverage as well. Minerals are great for concealing so you don’t need another product. It is your liquid, power and concealer all in one.

Liquids: Liquid foundations have a liquid lotion base and pigments added for color and coverage. Many have chemicals, preservatives and parabins.

Tinted moisturizer– It is a lotion and pigments combined, 80% lotion and 20% pigment. VERY sheer coverage. Tinted moisturizer is perfect for softening and protecting the skin while adding a hint of foundation color. This makeup is also ideal because you don’t have to put on moisturizer and then foundation, it’s a one step process.

Liquid Foundation– 40% lotion and 60% pigments. MOST airbrush makeup utilizes a liquid foundation however, they add water so the spray won’t get clogged. This is great for easy application, personally I think it’s a fad. It may look cool but the makeup artist must carry the machine which might be cumbersome. Women with oily skin should avoid dewy finish foundation and should set any liquid foundation with a translucent powder to reduce shine.

Whipped Foundation– This is a liquid foundation that has been whipped with air. Mousse makeup is liquid makeup with air whipped in making it lighter and smoother. It comes in a spray or aerosol-type can, like whipped cream. It costs more than other cosmetics because you’re paying for the added air and specialized packaging but if you’ve ever spread whipped butter on a hot piece of toast then you’ll know the difference is vast. Whipped foundation is good for all skin types.

Talc: Talc is a mineral produced by the mining of talc rocks and then processed by crushing, drying and milling. Processing eliminates a number of trace minerals from the talc but does not separate minute fibers which are very similar to asbestos. Talc is toxic and talc particles can cause tumors in human ovaries and lungs. Numerous studies have shown a strong link between frequent use of talc in the female genital area and ovarian cancer. Talc particles are able to move through the reproductive system and become embedded in the lining of the ovary. Clearly with or without asbestos-like fibers, cosmetic grade talcum powder is a carcinogen.

I don’t mean to scare you about talc, as you probably gathered I am just not a fan of the stuff. I have been pro minerals ever since 1996 when I was a sales representative with Jane Iredale.

What I encourage you to do is be astute to the products you are going to personally use and the products you are going to use for your clients. Read labels, study the new technology, do your homework. I also would like to encourage you to try all the forms of makeup out on yourself. If you love a product yourself you will always be better at selling it.

Go to your makeup bag, empty it, go through it and then start to throw liquid items away if they are more than 3 months old. Now you have made a start.

So Many Skincare Lines, So Little Time

I was stood in the middle of a huge expanse in the Miami Convention Center at the International Congress of Esthetics and Spa surrounded by hundreds of different skincare lines and feeling, not only overwhelmed but incredibly excited. There were so many lines biding for the attention of the professionals in the hope of a sale and for the opportunity to utilize their skincare line in the professionals practice.

While I think every line is great and  every line has its place, not every line is perfect. Every line is known to have its ‘star product.’ I used to say this all the time when I was a sales representative specializing in outbound sales. First I was careful not to speak negatively about any of the competitors and I would also make sure I was astute to all the ingredients, buzz words and new technology that not only my line had, but my competitors had too.

I have a standard in why I pick and choose the products I work with. My standard is that I have extensive knowledge of the company and the specific ingredients in each bottle. I also know that it works on a personal level as well. Some professionals make their choice by what they learned in school while others choose the philosophy behind the line.

I write this for anyone who is pondering what line to carry in their practice. The following list are specific elements that a line should have. They read as an A to Z.

Here you go then. Regarding the products you use on your clients:
1) Are they certified toxic free?

2) Do they contain no hormone disruptor’s or age accelerators?
4) Do they go beyond natural and organic to “inhibit” cancer?
5) Do they reach and feed the “mother cells”?
6) Do they restore and repair broken capillaries?
7) Do they provide a unique one-of-a-kind luxurious experience?
8) Are they made with organic ingredients and contains “live” fresh resveratrol?
9) Do they naturally contain antioxidants and phenolic compounds?
10) Are they all natural but deliver cosmeceutical strength with visible results on the first application?
11) Are they all backed by clinical human trials to “inhibit” skin cancer?
12) Do they reduce free radical activity?
13) Do they stimulate cell energy?
14) Do they rapidly improve and heal acne, rosacea, dermatitis, seborrhea or any other skin conditions?
15)  Are they healthy for the whole body?
14) Do they provide oral supplementation for body and skin?
Chemicals are OUT. The “baby boomers” want to look good. Luxury proven ANTI-CANCER is IN and spreading like wild fire!

I hope this helps you to make the right decision on what line to choose for your practice. I also hope this opens your mind to all the skincare lines out there and remember, every skincare line has its place and every skincare line has its star product.

So many lines, so little time. Just take your time and find the best fit for you!

Have Bad Skin Habits?

Do you do these bad habits? Look at the check list below… if your doing more than 3 of them; you need to break your habits!!!

1. Not removing makeup. This one is pretty basic, but it still needs to be said. Taking off your makeup before you go to sleep at night is so important.Think of your skin as the windshield of your car.  Toxins, oil, dirt, debris, makeup, free radicals, spores, mold, dust, and many more microscopic particles attach to your skin throughout the day. Wash once to get all the debris off and then wash again (it is like using Windex on the glass. To take it a step further, I love to use my Clairsonic brush too… www.clairsonic.com %60 more debris are removed by using the brush!!!

2. Not wearing sunscreen Apply a sunscreen or moisturizer with SPF everyday to protect it from the harmful rays. Your face (and health) will thank you later.  I use my makeup for my SPF. I apply in the morning and throughout the day. www.randejames.com

3. Not drinking enough water. Only %5 of all the water intake throughout the day ever reaches your skin. The skin is the largest organ of the body and the lowest on the totem pole for water. Take your body weight, divide it by 2 and that is how many ounces of water you should consume a day. This is really a good challenge for you. Try it and you will notice your skin looking and feeling better!!!

4. Using bar soap to wash your face *Shudders*. There is no need, or excuse to be using a bar soap to wash your face with.  Every skin care line from an Over the Counter (OTC) to a prescription/pharmaceutical Skin care lines ALL have a wash. Figure out your skin type and choose accordingly.

5. Using moisturizer on the eyes. Use eye cream! The skin around your eyes is very delicate. Most skin care lines have an eye cream specifically for this delicate area. Most moisturizer can actually harm this delicate skin rather than help it… read the ingredients. Choose your eye cream in accordance to your skin condition (wrinkles, dark circles, puffiness etc.).

6. Wearing foundation that does not match your skin tone. NO ONE likes a demarkation line!!! If you’re unsure about what foundation you ought to be using, try a couple out at a cosmetics counter and have one of the makeup artists help you to find a formula and color that accurately matches your skin’s tone and texture. My favorite line is Randy James Lebrecque’s line Rande James Cosmetics. www.randejames.com He is in Saint Petersburg and time is running out to get a chance to work with him personally… get in to see him!!!

7. Smoking…. I can say a lot here but I think we all know enough about what smoke does to the body and skin. QUIT!

If you have any of these bad habits… break them. You will look better, feel better and your skin and health will thank you later!

Layers of the Skin… Made Easy

Have you ever tried to explain the different layers of the skin to your clients and then observe them as they look back at you with that blank stare?

I like to paint a picture in their mind’s eye of all the layers, what they each do and which layer you are working with. I start by explaining the function of the skin as a whole and then break each layer down. I like to clarify by saying, “The skin is alive and it will repair itself, I am causing the skin trauma in order for the skin to regenerate and make new cells. These new cells go on to replace the old cells.”

Understanding the anatomy and physiology of the skin can provide insight to the measures that can be made to minimize the damage that can surface due to exfoliation treatments. Personally I like to paint the picture all the layers of the skin, including muscle tissue as a bed. This helps your client to understand of how deep the treatment penetrates and which part of the Epidermis, Dermis and Subcutainous layers that I am stimulating.

Lets break it down…

Comforter= Top Layer of the Epidermis- (Stratum Corneum)- Removal of the comforter by way of bio-chemicals (enzymes), chemical (AHA, BHA, Jessner and TCA) or physical treatment (Microdermabrasion, pumice, etc) allows any treatment to penetrate deeper.

When I stimulate the comforter by removing the top layer of the skin I put the skin in defense mode, thus results are inevitable.

Blankets= Medium or “between” layers of the epidermis (Stratum Lucidium, Granulosum, Spinosum, Germinativum)- The blanket layer is always regenerating every 28-42 days depending on age, lifestyle and genes. The cell cycle is exactly what the treatments are trying to encourage, a speed up of the cycle itself. This is great for wrinkles, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, un-even skin tone and pore size.

Sheets=Stratum germinativum also called the”stratum basale” or the nursery where all the cells are generated. This is a crucial layer for the client to understand as this layer is where the skin makes cells because of stimulating treatments. New cells replace the old cells.

Mattress= Subcutaneous Layer- Collagen and elastin are the building block and structure of the skin. Elastin fibers give skin its ‘rubber bands’, – its ‘snap-back quality’. Sagging skin is lacking youthful levels of elastin fibers . Wrinkles form because there is elastin fiber deficient (sagging) skin lying over the moving muscles of your face. Stimulating exfoliating treatments treats this loss of important elastin fiber by returning the elastin content of your skin to that of elastic, youthful skin.

Box Spring= Muscle layer. This is where the main structure of our skin covers.  Muscles need to be massaged and stimulated in the same way our skin does. Muscle tension can cause wrinkles such as crow’s feet, labial folds and forehead lines. Memory lines. Treatments such as micro-current www.beautifulimagellc.com and high frequency can stimulate and relax muscle tension.

I hope this helps you understand the structure of the skin, and if you are a service provider like an Aesthetician, then you can be more effective in explaining what exactly what part of the face you are working on.

Please keep you eye out for this is an exerpt from the article I am writing for Les Nouvelles Esthetique & Spa or visit www.www.lneonline.com that should be published in this years May issue.