Tag Archive | Photography

Q & A Microdermabrasion from A to Z

There are a lot of misnomer’s about Microdermabrasion. I wanted to break the entire process down for you, explain each detail of what it is, how it works and what it can do for your clients skin. I believe this is a powerful tool in an Aestheticians room and should be utilized.

What is Microdermabrasion?

Let’s break it down…

Micro/Derm/Abrasion: Microsopically Abrade (remove) the top layer of the Epidermis to improve the skins elasticity, texture and clarity.

A physical (not chemical in which certain acids dissolve the despinosum which is the glue that hold all the dead cells in its place) removal of dead skin cells by way of a flow of crystals (aluminum oxide, salt, baking soda, oatmeal or diamond tip) that loosen and lift the cells, then a vacuum (negative pressure) draws the skin close to the apparatus, sweeps away the cells and crystals while increasing circulation of lymph and blood. Under the microscope, the skin looks like overlapping fish scales.

 

How does microdermabrasion create results?

There are two ways Microdermabrasion create results, Epidermis and the Subcutanious layers of the skin.

Epidermis- the surface of the skin.  The skin is alive and will protect itself and when you exfoliate the skin it goes into survival mode. The Basal Layer (I like to call it the nursery) is where all the cells are produced and it start kicking out new cells, these new cells replace the old cells that are removed from the Epidermis, hence cellular turnover is increased. During this process collagen and elastin fibroblasts (connective fibers of the skin that supports the skins form) both get stimulated and increases the firmness of the skin. I like to explain to my clients in this way, “Microdermabrasion is a controlled trauma procedure. The nursery layer where all the cells are generated from gets stimulated. After 3-4 treatments depending on the client, the Basel Layer gets fatigued and calls for back up from the dermis and then collagen and elastin are produced.”

subcutaneous under the skin where blood and lymph are present. Lymph and blood flow are increased due to the negative pressure that removes the crystals and dead skin cells from the surface of the skin and draws them back into the machine. Lymph is the toxic waste dump of the body and has two functions; lymph supplies all cells with moisture and nutrients. Lymph also draws toxins away from cells keeping them in optimal health. Lymph does not move throughout the body on its own; it moves by way of muscle contraction, message and natural body movement. There is a specific direction to move the apparatus so that the negative pressure (massage) can be fully utilized, always moving out and down towards the lymph nodes that specifically filter the lymph. Oxidation to the skin happens when the negative pressure not only moves the lymph but also draws blood to the surface of the skin which stimulates circulation nourishing and oxidizing the skin.

 

What is the treatment regime?

Anyone who wants healthier and younger looking skin can have a treatment done, age is applicable on what the client is trying to achieve. Clients can have 1 treatment per week for consecutive weeks (up to 12 if needed) to achieve optimal results. As a therapist, I want to make sure that a clients goes through their treatment regime to get them through a full cell cycle. Cell cycle can be anywhere from 21-45 days. Getting them through a full cell cycle makes sure that they will have the best results. Having treatments close to one another makes sure that the basal layer is continually stimulated; this is important for elastin and collagen syntheses.

Maintaining is needed and encouraged due to the inability to stop the ageing process. Clients can have 1 treatment per month, the every 3rd month and so on. Remember that all clients are not the same. Each individuals and each have different home regimes and lifestyles. The professional must listen and take account their specific needs and desired results. It is always recommended to each client to use

 

pharmaceutical skin care products with SPF to protect the newly exfoliated skin. When you have removed the dead skin layer, skin care products can be more quickly penetrated, providing the skin with immediate surge of moisture, nutrients, acids and vitamins. Always inform them that 20% of their results happen in the treatment room and 80% of their results happen at home.

What are some things to be aware of?

It is extremely important and it is the professionals responsibility to prescreen each potential clients. .Some clients will not be able to utilize the microdermabrasion procedure because of the following:

*Active or open acne lesions such as pustules.

*Rosecia- depends on each client. Never during a time when the skin has inflammation due to blood circulation.

*pregnancy Hyperpigmentation masking may be stimulated due to hormonal levels.

*dermatitis inflammatory condition that may flare up.

*Broken capillaries the vacuum or negative pressure may further the condition.

*Herpes Simplex I & II- Preexisting condition. Can cause an outbreak for the client.

*HIV & AIDS- The skin is thinned and can cause lesions due to a inefficient immune system

*Diabetes- The skin is extremely compromised with many medications.

*Tattoos- Tattoos can be lightened

What can you expect from getting treatments?

I like to tell my clients that results vary from client to client. I also like to explain that the longer it took to get the skin conditions a client has, the more treatments a client needs. Overall the skin becomes healthier and appears fresher, younger. Sun damage is reversed. The following results can be achieved:

*Hyperpigmentation such as age/liver spots are lightened and/or removed.

*Acne scars and pore size are minimized thus texture of the skin is improved.

*Tone and clarity due to blood and lymph circulation looks evened out.

*Elasticity and firmness are increased due to the exfoliation process.

*Restoration of the skin to its natural beauty and diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles are achieved.

*Decrease of oil production in oily complexions, safe for certain Rosacia clients.

What is a treatment like, from start to finish?

Wear gloves and a mask.

*Cleanse twice with lukewarm water and NO steam, no need to draw up circulation before the use of the vacuum.

*The use of an alcohol based toner/astringent/solution thoroughly dries the skin due to fact evaporation and removes all evidence of cleanser. Since this is a dry process the professional must not leave the skin moist. The use of a 2%-5% chemical acid can start the exfoliating process due to dissolving the dead skin cells even before they are loosened and swept away, and kills bacteria as well.

*Microdermabrasion procedure. Moving the apparatus down and out towards the lymph nodes.

*Removal of all crystals. This differs and depends on which crystals are being utilized.

*Extractions are best and easiest at this time.

*Ultrasound with Vitamin C and retinol (take advantage of the skin)

*Mask application re nourishes, moisturizes, calms and treats.

*Moisturizer with an SPF to protect the new skin from further damage. This skin is now photosensitive.

I recommend everyone try a treatment. Do your homework and get one!!! Happy Exfoliating everyone!

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‘The Beauty Blueprint Project #1

And so let the true therapy begin…

 

 

I was so grateful when Michelle Phillips contacted me asking to be a guest on my About FACE Internet radio show which broadcasts on Rhino On Air at 9am Thursdays EST. (www.rhinoonair.com)  As I do with all my guests, I googled her and discovered wow, she is not only an amazing and accomplished celebrity makeup artist but a motivational speaker, Life Coach, TV and radio host as well as being a bestselling Hay House author. Michelle guested on my show last week and what impressed me was, not only her extensive range of celebrity clientele but her grace and spirit.

 

Michelle presented me with her book “The Beauty Blueprint” as a personal thank you for being a guest and I promised her then that I would read her book, do the exercises and then blog about my discoveries. As I originally mentioned in my first blog, “In the Beginning” this is not only intended to be informative but I genuinely feel it will also act as great therapy for me. I cannot think of a better book than this to allow me to rediscover who I am from the inside and help reclaim the essence of what makes me uniquely beautiful.  I know that these findings and this deep inner self discovery will act as a satisfying and absorbing read.

 

The moment I received my book I devoured the first part of it and it brought me to tears.  “The Inspiration for the Beauty Blueprint” is the title of the preface of Michelle Phillips’ book “The Beauty Blueprint” www.michellephillips.com and in there I found just that, inspiration. I have been feeling less than inspired lately and this could be the catalyst to change that. I believe that everything begins with what is going on in the mind which ultimately affects your attitude.

 

I want to embrace change. It might appear scary at first but I know that with that change I will grow as a person. I WILL embrace it. I have felt for a while now that I have been in a rut and I am looking forward to this change.

 

I am looking forward to sharing with you what I learn from this book, my findings and genuinely hope it will inspire you in much the same way.

 

Cheers to therapy!

 

 

 

 

So Many Skincare Lines, So Little Time

I was stood in the middle of a huge expanse in the Miami Convention Center at the International Congress of Esthetics and Spa surrounded by hundreds of different skincare lines and feeling, not only overwhelmed but incredibly excited. There were so many lines biding for the attention of the professionals in the hope of a sale and for the opportunity to utilize their skincare line in the professionals practice.

While I think every line is great and  every line has its place, not every line is perfect. Every line is known to have its ‘star product.’ I used to say this all the time when I was a sales representative specializing in outbound sales. First I was careful not to speak negatively about any of the competitors and I would also make sure I was astute to all the ingredients, buzz words and new technology that not only my line had, but my competitors had too.

I have a standard in why I pick and choose the products I work with. My standard is that I have extensive knowledge of the company and the specific ingredients in each bottle. I also know that it works on a personal level as well. Some professionals make their choice by what they learned in school while others choose the philosophy behind the line.

I write this for anyone who is pondering what line to carry in their practice. The following list are specific elements that a line should have. They read as an A to Z.

Here you go then. Regarding the products you use on your clients:
1) Are they certified toxic free?

2) Do they contain no hormone disruptor’s or age accelerators?
4) Do they go beyond natural and organic to “inhibit” cancer?
5) Do they reach and feed the “mother cells”?
6) Do they restore and repair broken capillaries?
7) Do they provide a unique one-of-a-kind luxurious experience?
8) Are they made with organic ingredients and contains “live” fresh resveratrol?
9) Do they naturally contain antioxidants and phenolic compounds?
10) Are they all natural but deliver cosmeceutical strength with visible results on the first application?
11) Are they all backed by clinical human trials to “inhibit” skin cancer?
12) Do they reduce free radical activity?
13) Do they stimulate cell energy?
14) Do they rapidly improve and heal acne, rosacea, dermatitis, seborrhea or any other skin conditions?
15)  Are they healthy for the whole body?
14) Do they provide oral supplementation for body and skin?
Chemicals are OUT. The “baby boomers” want to look good. Luxury proven ANTI-CANCER is IN and spreading like wild fire!

I hope this helps you to make the right decision on what line to choose for your practice. I also hope this opens your mind to all the skincare lines out there and remember, every skincare line has its place and every skincare line has its star product.

So many lines, so little time. Just take your time and find the best fit for you!

Bring Home the Bacon… Now Where’s the Pan?

... and fry it up in a pan.... ‘I’m a Woman,’ written by Lieber and Stoller and performed by the late Peggy Lee became famous for the Enjoli perfume commercials of the 1970s. Some however, may remember it differently as the duet with Raquel Welch and Miss Piggy on The Muppet Show!

It is a song of inspiration about the amazing feats that women perform every day and although I am constantly aware of this, do I really understand exactly what kind of feats they are referring to? I might not be saving lives, ending wars and giving all my money to charities but I do know of the amazing feats I perform for women every day. It goes a long way to helping women feel better about themselves, it’s rewarding and it inspires me.

This all began in my car this morning as I cruised over the Sunshine Skyway Bridge and into the dawn of a glorious new day. (For those who don’t know, The Skyway bridge is the tallest, most majestic bridge in Tampa Bay connecting South Shore to Saint Petersburg.) Then suddenly as if by an amazing feat itself I found myself humming this very same song. I smiled.

Although I drive this same bridge everyday somehow today felt different, very different. Partial as I am to random humming, I have no idea why I began humming “I’m a Woman” this morning, it’s not as though it was on the radio or anything. In fact I hadn’t thought about the song in ages but just in that moment I was transported back and began thinking of how powerful women in business really are. I also began thinking how I feel when I am working on a woman’s face. How totally focused I am on getting her the results she is expecting, hand holding with every step. It is fulfilling and as I feel empowered, I am empowering them too. It is the most natural of motivations and makes me forever grateful for what I do.

I was also thinking about networking, due mainly to the rather large, bright pink directory of Working Women of Tampa Bay that is resting on the front seat of my car. (www.workingwomenoftampabay.com)  It made me think of all the women out there who are working and of those who are the only bread winners in the family. I paused to think a while.

Just prior to breaking in to my first hum of the day I had just finished a telephone conversation with Heather Sakelariou, owner and fellow Aesthetician of Heather’s Day Spa www.HeathersDaySpa.com. I had just booked her for my March 22nd. About FACE show on Rhino On Air www.rhinoonair.com and she shared with me about how much she does for her family. She is both gracious and humble. She is happy and she is inspiring. People like this are such a pleasure to work with, every day they stride forward with a purpose.

I also pondered over ‘About BEAUTY’ and I secretly hoped it would be a success.

As I said “In the Beginning” this is therapy for me. I reflect on my thought process, my own fears and insecurities and my hopes and aspirations for the future. With that comes a true, very real respect for women. We are powerful, we are strong and we are united.

We are women… now where was my pan?

Have Bad Skin Habits?

Do you do these bad habits? Look at the check list below… if your doing more than 3 of them; you need to break your habits!!!
1. Not removing makeup. This one is pretty basic, but it still needs to be said. Taking off your makeup before you go to sleep at night is so important.Think of your skin as the windshield of your car.  Toxins, oil, dirt, debris, makeup, free radicals, spores, mold, dust, and many more microscopic particles attach to your skin throughout the day. Wash once to get all the debris off and then wash again (it is like using Windex on the glass. To take it a step further, I love to use my Clairsonic brush too… www.clairsonic.com %60 more debris are removed by using the brush!!!
2. Not wearing sunscreen Apply a sunscreen or moisturizer with SPF everyday to protect it from the harmful rays. Your face (and health) will thank you later.  I use my makeup for my SPF. I apply in the morning and throughout the day. www.randejames.com
3. Not drinking enough water. Only %5 of all the water intake throughout the day ever reaches your skin. The skin is the largest organ of the body and the lowest on the totem pole for water. Take your body weight, divide it by 2 and that is how many ounces of water you should consume a day. This is really a good challenge for you. Try it and you will notice your skin looking and feeling better!!!
4. Using bar soap to wash your face *Shudders*. There is no need, or excuse to be using a bar soap to wash your face with.  Every skin care line from an Over the Counter (OTC) to a prescription/pharmaceutical Skin care lines ALL have a wash. Figure out your skin type and choose accordingly.
5. Using moisturizer on the eyes. Use eye cream! The skin around your eyes is very delicate. Most skin care lines have an eye cream specifically for this delicate area. Most moisturizer can actually harm this delicate skin rather than help it… read the ingredients. Choose your eye cream in accordance to your skin condition (wrinkles, dark circles, puffiness etc.).
6. Wearing foundation that does not match your skin tone. NO ONE likes a demarkation line!!! If you’re unsure about what foundation you ought to be using, try a couple out at a cosmetics counter and have one of the makeup artists help you to find a formula and color that accurately matches your skin’s tone and texture. My favorite line is Randy James Lebrecque’s line Rande James Cosmetics. www.randejames.com He is in Saint Petersburg and time is running out to get a chance to work with him personally… get in to see him!!!
7. Smoking…. I can say a lot here but I think we all know enough about what smoke does to the body and skin. QUIT!
If you have any of these bad habits… break them. You will look better, feel better and your skin and health will thank you later!

What Grade Does Your Makeup Get?

Whay Grade Are Yur Products?There is a HUGE difference between over the counter products and professional products. Effectively it all boils down to how you get the products, did a woman behind a fancy department store counter help you, did you get a facial with an Aesthetician and did she recommended it to you? Believe it or not, there is a huge difference between the two.

There are three different grades of makeup to choose from, over the counter, professional or medical. Let’s look at them in a little more detail.

Eye Makeup

Everything you are able to use on your face is regulated by the FDA and the percentage of active ingredients in the product will determine just how you can buy it. Over the counter (OTC) constitutes less than 2% of active ingredients. You can acquire these products by means of TV, radio, department stores, grocery stores, beauty consultants (working with a MLM line) CVS, Walgreens etc. The products aren’t strong enough to hurt your skin providing you use them correctly. Many of my clients are happy with their products and being a professional I respect their choice. However, I think it all depends on what your expectations are, if a client is really happy using an OTC product then that’s good. Personally I’m happy to let my facials speak for themselves as my main focus is my client’s satisfaction.

Professional: 2% and higher, up to 10% of active ingredients. The professional has a license and education that pertains to application and you can find these products in a salon, spa, dermatologist and plastic surgeon’s office.  As these products are result orientated the focus and motivation behind the product is change. But for real change you’ll need a higher active ingredient in the product .

Medical: 10% and higher of active ingredients. This is a prescription product only. The doctor prescribes the product for real change but it is mainly the patients who receive prescriptions for skin conditions and diseases.

I hope this sheds some light on the subject. If you’re confused and want personal attention in this matter then I’d be happy to help you. I conduct a comprehensive 2 1/2 hour appointment in the comfort of a woman’s home, a one on one with emphasis on my clients concerns together with any questions they might have. This is a great opportunity to examine the makeup and skincare she has in her drawers and is currently using. I go though their makeup and pitch the old, dated, wrong and expired. Believe me there are a lot of crazy things in a woman’s purse, I can understand why men are afraid of them. I then give suggestions for positive changes.

Although Mary Kay started this idea I approach it from a slightly different perspective  where my focus is on education not sales. I also do a step by step makeup application with a detailed instruction. The makeup is removed and my client can then apply the makeup herself with further instruction. I will demonstrate the most progressive techniques in makeup application and teach you how to accentuate the positive and eliminate the negative.

After I leave clients are so happy that they ask me to do closets, kitchens and garages…but I think I’ll just stay with what I know. I do love what I do especially when I see the proverbial light bulb go on when a client figures out her daily regime and gets the look she is needing. It is magical!

When it comes to products ask yourself a simple question, are you happy with it and is it helping you? Are you getting results? If not then I suggest you go up a grade level. It can make all the difference in your skin! I love and recommend Randy James LeBrecque’s line Rande James… check it out www.randejames.com and GloTherapeutics http://www.glotherapeutics.com !

If you are interested in any further information or would like a consultation then please visit www.skinchicinc.com for my number and special pricing, mention my blog and receive 10% off.

 

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What Are you Worth in the New Year?

I am aware that most women were looking for advice on how to do a smokey eye for a special occasion however, I have decided to reflect back on this year and ask a very important question to all the service providers out in “beauty industry land”, what is your worth? Have you cherished your worth more this year than the past? Are you getting closer to knowing your true worth for the New Year?

I am feeling very reflective. Lately I have been asking myself “Do I really know my worth?” and “What does worth mean anyway?” This all stems from when I had Foster Fox as a guest on a recent internet radio show of mine, ‘About Face’ (www.rhinoonair.com)  It struck a chord with me, so strongly in fact that I just had to blog about it and as a result I’m dedicating my next About Face show to the subject of knowing ones worth. Most beauty service providers, in fact most people don’t know their worth. It was exactly the same for me for almost all of my 20 year career.

Knowing my worth as Founder/Owner of Skin Chic Inc., Paramedical Aesthetician, Professional Makeup Artist, Beauty Industry Educator, Public Speaker, Radio Personality and Writer has been one of the hardest lessons for me personally to learn. To know the balance between offering freebies, doing charitable pro bono work and even to ask for the right and fair price for what I do can be tricky. This requires the confidence in knowing the cost of my overhead (my makeup is not cheap), taking consideration of time and travel (wear and tear together with gas), doing my field homework and matching/beating my competitors prices. And so on. This knowledge comes from the experience gained in my chosen area of expertise.

This past year I have gotten closer to knowing my worth. Do I base my worth on that 20 years of experience? Have I been doing enough networking, blogging, tweeting, Facebooking and other forms of marketing to get my name out there? Do “they” know who I am and what I can provide?

I think the proverbial light bulb came on for me this past year. When it comes to knowing my worth, the past three years have been the most challenging of my career, I realized that I have given so much away. Isn’t my knowledge worth something? I think it is. It takes extensive knowledge to set up a fully equipped Aesthetic room in less than two weeks in order to run a successful practice. I have set up and equipped three rooms for free and I now feel I need to get compensated for all that work. Is that being unreasonable?

The Bible says: A workman is worth their hire.1 Tim 5:18. Wages should be fair and relative for what the workers skills require. Myself, I know that I have been around long enough to know my worth and for people to value my work, talent and professionalism. As with any experienced professional, I have paid my dues.

A casing example was this past month. I did a fashion show, pro bono where I worked for five and a half  hours non stop providing make up for over twenty 20 models. When other makeup artists had left I chose to stay until the end of the show because a friend was in need. I valued her worth not just mine and in return I got valuable exposure in a city I haven’t really worked in before. It made sense for both parties and I was so thrilled with the on site picture of my work that I have used it on both my website and Facebook page. I wouldn’t have done it if I hadn’t known and respected the designer as the show was in an already saturated market. This was all based on knowing my worth and seeing a situation where not one but both parties benefited.

I have been asked to write articles for Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa magazine. I am thrilled. I know that this is a pro bono writing gig, I know this national beauty industry magazine will give me national exposure. I am humbled by this. I know all the work I will pour into writing a few articles (I am an over achiever), however I wouldn’t pass this opportunity up!

I think people can often see makeup artists as playing dress up, I know because I have experienced it myself and been treated exactly that same way. I don’t think people fully appreciate the work and the artistry behind the technical craft in a makeup application. Some think, “I’m doing you a favor by giving you an opportunity to do something for free”. This can be seen as insulting to a professional and,  where previously I might have felt guilty in saying no  I now value my true worth and I politely decline. I thank them for thinking of me and I move on.

Please don’t misinterpret this, I have donated much to charity and will continue to do, I am always thinking of how I can donate more. Just by way of an example, I have done over $3,000 worth of facials at my last place of employment (approx. 67 hours of free work). I do understand that any job I do can lead to more work however, that doesn’t fill my lipstick palette. I have learned to scale back, be wiser and make better choices for the new year. People value people and as someone once said to me, ‘Is it up to standard or down to price?’

I hope you know your worth in the new year. Happy New Year!