The Waxing Facial
Treatment 2/ Week 2- Day 7 of a cell cycle
Treatment 3/Week 3- Day 14 of a cell cycle
Treatment 4 /Week 4- Day 21 of a cell cycle
Treatment 5/Week 5- Day 28 of a cell cycle
Treatment 6/Week 6- Day 35 of a cell cycle
The cell cycle time of basal keratinocytes 3 days after abrasion is drastically reduced to about 11 hrs. This is compared to 5 to 7 days in the normal epidermis. The cell cycle time gradually increased to 14 hr at 5 days. It is sped up to 1 to 2 days at 7 days, and 4 to 5 days at 14 days after abrasion. This dramatically changes the skin, minimizes the skin conditions and the skin has been renewed.
There are a lot of misnomer’s about Microdermabrasion. I wanted to break the entire process down for you, explain each detail of what it is, how it works and what it can do for your clients skin. I believe this is a powerful tool in an Aestheticians room and should be utilized.
What is Microdermabrasion?
Let’s break it down…
Micro/Derm/Abrasion: Microsopically Abrade (remove) the top layer of the Epidermis to improve the skins elasticity, texture and clarity.
A physical (not chemical in which certain acids dissolve the despinosum which is the glue that hold all the dead cells in its place) removal of dead skin cells by way of a flow of crystals (aluminum oxide, salt, baking soda, oatmeal or diamond tip) that loosen and lift the cells, then a vacuum (negative pressure) draws the skin close to the apparatus, sweeps away the cells and crystals while increasing circulation of lymph and blood. Under the microscope, the skin looks like overlapping fish scales.
How does microdermabrasion create results?
There are two ways Microdermabrasion create results, Epidermis and the Subcutanious layers of the skin.
Epidermis- the surface of the skin. The skin is alive and will protect itself and when you exfoliate the skin it goes into survival mode. The Basal Layer (I like to call it the nursery) is where all the cells are produced and it start kicking out new cells, these new cells replace the old cells that are removed from the Epidermis, hence cellular turnover is increased. During this process collagen and elastin fibroblasts (connective fibers of the skin that supports the skins form) both get stimulated and increases the firmness of the skin. I like to explain to my clients in this way, “Microdermabrasion is a controlled trauma procedure. The nursery layer where all the cells are generated from gets stimulated. After 3-4 treatments depending on the client, the Basel Layer gets fatigued and calls for back up from the dermis and then collagen and elastin are produced.”
subcutaneous under the skin where blood and lymph are present. Lymph and blood flow are increased due to the negative pressure that removes the crystals and dead skin cells from the surface of the skin and draws them back into the machine. Lymph is the toxic waste dump of the body and has two functions; lymph supplies all cells with moisture and nutrients. Lymph also draws toxins away from cells keeping them in optimal health. Lymph does not move throughout the body on its own; it moves by way of muscle contraction, message and natural body movement. There is a specific direction to move the apparatus so that the negative pressure (massage) can be fully utilized, always moving out and down towards the lymph nodes that specifically filter the lymph. Oxidation to the skin happens when the negative pressure not only moves the lymph but also draws blood to the surface of the skin which stimulates circulation nourishing and oxidizing the skin.
What is the treatment regime?
Anyone who wants healthier and younger looking skin can have a treatment done, age is applicable on what the client is trying to achieve. Clients can have 1 treatment per week for consecutive weeks (up to 12 if needed) to achieve optimal results. As a therapist, I want to make sure that a clients goes through their treatment regime to get them through a full cell cycle. Cell cycle can be anywhere from 21-45 days. Getting them through a full cell cycle makes sure that they will have the best results. Having treatments close to one another makes sure that the basal layer is continually stimulated; this is important for elastin and collagen syntheses.
Maintaining is needed and encouraged due to the inability to stop the ageing process. Clients can have 1 treatment per month, the every 3rd month and so on. Remember that all clients are not the same. Each individuals and each have different home regimes and lifestyles. The professional must listen and take account their specific needs and desired results. It is always recommended to each client to use
pharmaceutical skin care products with SPF to protect the newly exfoliated skin. When you have removed the dead skin layer, skin care products can be more quickly penetrated, providing the skin with immediate surge of moisture, nutrients, acids and vitamins. Always inform them that 20% of their results happen in the treatment room and 80% of their results happen at home.
What are some things to be aware of?
It is extremely important and it is the professionals responsibility to prescreen each potential clients. .Some clients will not be able to utilize the microdermabrasion procedure because of the following:
*Active or open acne lesions such as pustules.
*Rosecia- depends on each client. Never during a time when the skin has inflammation due to blood circulation.
*pregnancy Hyperpigmentation masking may be stimulated due to hormonal levels.
*dermatitis inflammatory condition that may flare up.
*Broken capillaries the vacuum or negative pressure may further the condition.
*Herpes Simplex I & II- Preexisting condition. Can cause an outbreak for the client.
*HIV & AIDS- The skin is thinned and can cause lesions due to a inefficient immune system
*Diabetes- The skin is extremely compromised with many medications.
*Tattoos- Tattoos can be lightened
What can you expect from getting treatments?
I like to tell my clients that results vary from client to client. I also like to explain that the longer it took to get the skin conditions a client has, the more treatments a client needs. Overall the skin becomes healthier and appears fresher, younger. Sun damage is reversed. The following results can be achieved:
*Hyperpigmentation such as age/liver spots are lightened and/or removed.
*Acne scars and pore size are minimized thus texture of the skin is improved.
*Tone and clarity due to blood and lymph circulation looks evened out.
*Elasticity and firmness are increased due to the exfoliation process.
*Restoration of the skin to its natural beauty and diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles are achieved.
*Decrease of oil production in oily complexions, safe for certain Rosacia clients.
What is a treatment like, from start to finish?
Wear gloves and a mask.
*Cleanse twice with lukewarm water and NO steam, no need to draw up circulation before the use of the vacuum.
*The use of an alcohol based toner/astringent/solution thoroughly dries the skin due to fact evaporation and removes all evidence of cleanser. Since this is a dry process the professional must not leave the skin moist. The use of a 2%-5% chemical acid can start the exfoliating process due to dissolving the dead skin cells even before they are loosened and swept away, and kills bacteria as well.
*Microdermabrasion procedure. Moving the apparatus down and out towards the lymph nodes.
*Removal of all crystals. This differs and depends on which crystals are being utilized.
*Extractions are best and easiest at this time.
*Ultrasound with Vitamin C and retinol (take advantage of the skin)
*Mask application re nourishes, moisturizes, calms and treats.
*Moisturizer with an SPF to protect the new skin from further damage. This skin is now photosensitive.
I recommend everyone try a treatment. Do your homework and get one!!! Happy Exfoliating everyone!
There are many misnomers about sunscreen, sun block and all of the rays out there. I would like to try and shed some light on the subject.
It’s very easy to get overwhelmed with the sunscreen options on offer on store shelves so here’s a quick guide to try and help find the best products to protect your family from the sun:
And so let the true therapy begin…
I was so grateful when Michelle Phillips contacted me asking to be a guest on my About FACE Internet radio show which broadcasts on Rhino On Air at 9am Thursdays EST. (www.rhinoonair.com) As I do with all my guests, I googled her and discovered wow, she is not only an amazing and accomplished celebrity makeup artist but a motivational speaker, Life Coach, TV and radio host as well as being a bestselling Hay House author. Michelle guested on my show last week and what impressed me was, not only her extensive range of celebrity clientele but her grace and spirit.
Michelle presented me with her book “The Beauty Blueprint” as a personal thank you for being a guest and I promised her then that I would read her book, do the exercises and then blog about my discoveries. As I originally mentioned in my first blog, “In the Beginning” this is not only intended to be informative but I genuinely feel it will also act as great therapy for me. I cannot think of a better book than this to allow me to rediscover who I am from the inside and help reclaim the essence of what makes me uniquely beautiful. I know that these findings and this deep inner self discovery will act as a satisfying and absorbing read.
The moment I received my book I devoured the first part of it and it brought me to tears. “The Inspiration for the Beauty Blueprint” is the title of the preface of Michelle Phillips’ book “The Beauty Blueprint” www.michellephillips.com and in there I found just that, inspiration. I have been feeling less than inspired lately and this could be the catalyst to change that. I believe that everything begins with what is going on in the mind which ultimately affects your attitude.
I want to embrace change. It might appear scary at first but I know that with that change I will grow as a person. I WILL embrace it. I have felt for a while now that I have been in a rut and I am looking forward to this change.
I am looking forward to sharing with you what I learn from this book, my findings and genuinely hope it will inspire you in much the same way.
Cheers to therapy!
I was stood in the middle of a huge expanse in the Miami Convention Center at the International Congress of Esthetics and Spa surrounded by hundreds of different skincare lines and feeling, not only overwhelmed but incredibly excited. There were so many lines biding for the attention of the professionals in the hope of a sale and for the opportunity to utilize their skincare line in the professionals practice.
While I think every line is great and every line has its place, not every line is perfect. Every line is known to have its ‘star product.’ I used to say this all the time when I was a sales representative specializing in outbound sales. First I was careful not to speak negatively about any of the competitors and I would also make sure I was astute to all the ingredients, buzz words and new technology that not only my line had, but my competitors had too.
I have a standard in why I pick and choose the products I work with. My standard is that I have extensive knowledge of the company and the specific ingredients in each bottle. I also know that it works on a personal level as well. Some professionals make their choice by what they learned in school while others choose the philosophy behind the line.
I write this for anyone who is pondering what line to carry in their practice. The following list are specific elements that a line should have. They read as an A to Z.
Here you go then. Regarding the products you use on your clients:
1) Are they certified toxic free?
2) Do they contain no hormone disruptor’s or age accelerators?
4) Do they go beyond natural and organic to “inhibit” cancer?
5) Do they reach and feed the “mother cells”?
6) Do they restore and repair broken capillaries?
7) Do they provide a unique one-of-a-kind luxurious experience?
8) Are they made with organic ingredients and contains “live” fresh resveratrol?
9) Do they naturally contain antioxidants and phenolic compounds?
10) Are they all natural but deliver cosmeceutical strength with visible results on the first application?
11) Are they all backed by clinical human trials to “inhibit” skin cancer?
12) Do they reduce free radical activity?
13) Do they stimulate cell energy?
14) Do they rapidly improve and heal acne, rosacea, dermatitis, seborrhea or any other skin conditions?
15) Are they healthy for the whole body?
14) Do they provide oral supplementation for body and skin?
Chemicals are OUT. The “baby boomers” want to look good. Luxury proven ANTI-CANCER is IN and spreading like wild fire!
I hope this helps you to make the right decision on what line to choose for your practice. I also hope this opens your mind to all the skincare lines out there and remember, every skincare line has its place and every skincare line has its star product.
So many lines, so little time. Just take your time and find the best fit for you!